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Help! Flights are booked but the weather sucks, weighing options...

Original Post
johndrico · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0


Here's the facts:

I'm in Olympia on business, from Toronto. My work here ends on Friday. I fly back to Toronto from Vancouver on Sept 11th. I have a friend flying into Vancouver from Toronto on Sept 5th to come do some climbing with me. He also flies back to Toronto on Sept 11th.

The original plan was for my friend to bus down to WA and for us to do a bit of alpine climbing in the Cascade and Olympic ranges, then head up to Squamish for a week or so.

Looking at the weather, it looks like Squamish is going to be a rainy mess for the next week and a half. Alternative plans are probably required.

I think Smith Rock is a viable alternative. My buddy can bus down to Olympia, we could meet here, rent a car, and make the drive in 6 hours.

Are there other options that we haven't considered?

Relevant backround info:

- Both of us are strong hikers
- Lead 5.7 trad in Southern Ontario
- Lead 5.10 sport
- Want to take this opportunity out west to do some easy alpine climbing
- Would also be happy to sport and/or trad climb in "famous" west coast places like Smith Rock


DMarti Marti · · custer,sd · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 0

Smith is your best bet. Plus there's trout near by for awesome cracks and dihedral climbing

The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air · · Portland, OR · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 0


BrokenChairs BrettC · · Sultan, WA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 245

looking to climb vantage. Sunny all weekend. In FW

Drew Spaulding · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 3,518

Washington Pass or Index!!

Nate Ball · · Portland, OR · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 9,000

Washington Pass...
Beckey Route on Liberty Bell
South Arete of South Early Winter Spire

South side of the Enchantments...
South Ridge of Ingalls Peak
West Ridge of Mt. Stuart

Inner Enchantments, permits required for overnight...
West Ridge of Prusik Peak

These are the best easy multi-pitch granite routes in Washington outside of the North Cascades. If you bump your grade up to 5.8 then there are a whole bunch more classics in Washington Pass and along Icicle Creek just outside Leavenworth. There are more options in the Enchantments as well, but would require an epic day or some amazing luck with permits. Smith Rock is a much further drive, and doesn't present anything remotely alpine in nature. Don't get me wrong, it's my favorite place to climb in general, but if you're looking for those Squamish feels...

johndrico · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

Hi all!

We ended up spending 4 days in Leavenworth climbing at Castle Rock and Icicle Buttress, did Ingall's Peak, and then drove up to Squamish when the weather cleared. Had a blast the entire time!

Thanks for advice and recommendations! I'll look out for an opportunity to pay it forward! :)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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