Linville Gorge Recommendations
|
I will have 1 day (maybe a second 1/2 day) to do some climbing at the end of September. I would like to only bring a single 70M with me but can bring 2 ropes if needed. |
|
If you climb Paradise Alley, you don't necessarily have to pick another nearby route to do as your second route. You will be going to the top of the cliff, and then most folks descend the same gully that leads to most of the routes. At the bottom of the gully you can turn right to head back toward the base of Paradise and Dopey Duck or go left to other stuff. Construction Job is good. Straight and Narrow may be .10-, but the two cruxes are isolated, well protected, and it's maybe less pumpy than Dopey Duck. Two ropes are unnecessary unless you're one of those who likes climbing on half ropes. |
|
I agree with Brian's thoughts. If you end up having the half day, a great choice of itineraries would be: |
|
When will you be there or are you looking for a partner? |
|
I"ve done all of the routes you've inquired about, and considering the time of year you'll be there I would recommend Bumble Bee Buttress. It's probably the longest, and it's the only route with a Bombay roof. Short off will be hot that time of year. You'll probably have the NC wall to yourself. |
|
If you're looking to push the grade a little higher, Built to Tilt (5.10) is an incredible climb on Shortoff. First two pitches are a breeze and then there's the third pitch...just awesome. |
|
I think the Thomas Kelly guide to NC is far superior to the NC selected climbs in particular for the gorge, but you will have to get it used somewhere(easily available on amazon). I Love the amphitheater area, but I haven't done many of the other climbs so take my suggestions with a grain of salt. |
|
James Maughan wrote:When will you be there or are you looking for a partner?Sorry but I don't need a partner, just hanging with my girlfriend. Wungiz wrote:I"ve done all of the routes you've inquired about, and considering the time of year you'll be there I would recommend Bumble Bee Buttress. It's probably the longest, and it's the only route with a Bombay roof. Short off will be hot that time of year. You'll probably have the NC wall to yourself.Not too concerned about the weather honestly. Climbing in Denver we will chase shade and elevation but even with that many days you are at 11,000' and it is 80+ and in the sun. If we can handle that we can handle the 70's they are calling for next week. calebmmallory wrote:If you're looking to push the grade a little higher, Built to Tilt (5.10) is an incredible climb on Shortoff. First two pitches are a breeze and then there's the third pitch...just awesome.Appreciate the thoughts but to keep it easy and enjoyable for my girl probably going to keep it in the 5.8-5.9 range. Kyle Cobbler wrote:I think the Thomas Kelly guide to NC is far superior to the NC selected climbs in particular for the gorge, but you will have to get it used somewhere(easily available on amazon). I Love the amphitheater area, but I haven't done many of the other climbs so take my suggestions with a grain of salt. SD modiano is a pretty nice 3 pitch 5.9 in the back of the amphitheater that doesn't get much traffic, could probably be done in 2 pitches. Reggae wall has a number fun short hard climbs if you wanted to do some 5.9-5.11 TR. Reggae beta only available in the Kelly guide. Good heavens 5.8 variation into the cave/room is quite fun, the cave has a balcony you can walk out on too. You can pretty easily do mummy, daddy, good heavens and prow too in a single day if you pushed a little. oh and all would be easily done with a single 70m, just keep going back to the rap gully on the backside of the mummy buttress.I got the NC Select climbs and it is pretty under whelming. Honestly disappointed in the beta it provides. I will see if I can get the Thomas Kelly guide before we leave on Friday. Thanks for the other thoughts. |
|
Thomas Kelly's guide while good , doesn't have many , if any additional information on those routes. |
|
Ezra Ellis wrote:Thomas Kelly's guide while good , doesn't have many , if any additional information on those routes. Have fun!!!! I'd probably just go with what you have and mountain projectIt was cheap and had free shipping so it is all good. I have some friends who will be able to borrow the books too. It should be fun. |
|
Parker, |
|
Yeah man the weather is looking good. The more I read the guide I agree shortoff gives us the best chance for mileage. I will report back how it goes! |