Mountain Project Logo

Where to climb? First time Brit for trad climbing USA. Fall 2017


Original Post
Paul Davies · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

Hey folks!
I'm hoping to get over the pond to the states next fall and pop my American trad climbing cherry!
My experience is UK sea cliff climbing at about E3 (5.11??) fiddly gear on wires mostly and half ropes.
My question is where to go? Where would you recommend.? I'm not interested in sport climbing but don't really know where I should go in the US. Utah looks amazing and the black in Colorado looks super adventurous. Yosemite screams big wall which I'm not so keen on unless someone wants to guide me and (never spent a night on a wall' plus 7 pitches is about the heighest I've climbed.
Any advice would be appreciate. Aiming for fall of 2017.
Cheers. Paul.
Ps: a partner call may well be in order for this trip :)

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Where should you climb in the US? You're going to get fifty different answers (with some repeats). Maybe narrow it down a bit. You have plenty of time to do more research outside of MP.

Phil Sakievich · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 105

For fall check out the desert SW! Red Rocks, Moab, Indian Creek, Zion, Sedona, JTree etc

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Don't forget Colorado. You'd have a blast in Boulder - Eldorado Canyon, Flatirons, etc. Red Rock in Nevada is also pretty incredible, and easy to get to (cheap flight to Vegas then 20 min drive).

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Ted Pinson wrote:...and easy to get to (cheap flight to Vegas then 20 min drive).
Actually coming from the UK, fares to Vegas are about the same as to SFO, DEN, REN, et al.
Derek Doucet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 53

Go to Red Rocks. There, we're done.

Paul Davies · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

Thanks guys
Sounds like red rocks is a popular destination. Gonna have to read into that. Maybe combine it with moab.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Paul Davies wrote:Thanks guys Sounds like red rocks is a popular destination. Gonna have to read into that. Maybe combine it with moab.
Don't know how long you'll be here, so just be aware that Vegas to Moab is about a 6.5 hr drive. Alternatively, Moab has very limited air service, served by fairly small planes. There is no public transportation between the two.
JK- · · SLC · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 58
psakievich wrote:For fall check out the desert SW! Red Rocks, Moab, Indian Creek, Zion, Sedona, JTree etc
Second this. Base out of Vegas or St George (Small city in Southern Utah) for a few weeks. You can rent a car and sample a variety of world class areas, and chase the best weather with never more than a few hours driving.
mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 28

How long do you plan on staying?

Yosemite might scream big walls, but there are plenty of long free routes at your grade, as well as above and below your grade. DNB, Steck-Salathe, Chouinard-Herbert, Moratorium, Astroman and the Serenity to Sons of Yesterday linkup all come to mind. If you've never climbed higher than 7 pitches then it's time you did.

Time and weather/temperatures permitting, my idea of a good itinerary would be to fly into LAX, rent a car and do a loop of Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne Meadows, the Sierra East side, Red Rocks, Joshua Tree then back to LAX and home. You should be able to link up with partners pretty easily at each of these places.

awolf · · New York, NY · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 5

Agree the west coast loop would be amazing. The Northeast is in prime season then as well so would also take a look at the Gunks and New Hampshire. Flying into NYC and doing a loop could also be an option.

nooky brown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 5

If it's trad you want.

September
City of Rocks Idaho
Salt Lake City Utah
Eldorado Colorado. I would give the Black a miss unless you find a SOLID partner. Though climbing at Gogarth is very similar.
Yosemite CA

October
Moab Utah No fiddly wires here.
Red Rocks Nevada

November
Joshua Tree CA
Mount Lemon AZ
Cochise Stronghold AZ

Most of the areas per month are drivable in a day from one to another.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply