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Moab dirtbagging October

Original Post
Eli · · GMC3500 · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 2,806

What is the best way to find climbing partners for the creek/Moab while living out of a car in the area?

Paul Hutton · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 741

Staff members at gear/guide stores may have connections. I climbed with 4 different people during the 2 days that I was there with hardly much effort. I met Sam Boyce on here--he's a guide, a great climber, and very friendly and humble and reserved to himself. Cool people that were all there for the same reasons just popped up along the way. I had a great time. There were a ton of people at the trailhead of Castleton Tower, and Wall Street is extremely popular.

pete cutler · · Des Moines, IA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 5

Sit in the Supercrack parking lot with a case of beer to share and a bunch of cams.

Ryan U. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 40

Dirtbagging is a little tough in Moab. Even on BLM land they are filled with pay camping. According to blm regulation you can car or primitive camp anywhere 20 miles outside of town plus you MUST have a personal toilet system or wag bags or risk a hefty fine, burying your poop here is not legal.

Just spent a month dirtbagging around Utah and CO, the Moab area gave us the biggest challenge.

The mountaineer shop should be your first stop for any questions. The girl who helped us out was living out of her van and gave us a ton of good information.

Ice4life · · US · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 330

for moab, always free camping on Willow Springs Road before arches if you're heading down to moab it's on your left. Wall street you can always find a group and chat them up. Offer to lead something hard and setup a TR.

Chris Schmidt · · Fruita · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

Moab has gotten tougher for dirt bags in the past few years. In 2013 I lived out of my car at the boat ramp right by the bridge just north of town. Excellent location with only a few drawbacks. I slept behind my car on crash pads because I had too much crap in my car to sleep in it. One night I had a cop roll through, and he only paused for a split second after spotting me, and just continued on his way.

With that said I can't guarantee that it is still a green light spot. Every other decent spot in Moab is either 15+ Miles outside of town, or 100% not free, and regularly checked

Mldunh1538 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

I'll be out that way at the beginning of October if you need a climbing partner

Eli · · GMC3500 · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 2,806

I'll be out that way at the beginning of October if you need a climbing partner

I have a double rack with a lot of extra tcus. Totally down.
Mldunh1538 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

I've got a full rack as well. Mostly sport climb around 5.10 area but would love to break into some trad. I can follow most 11s. You have anywhere specific in mind?

Eli · · GMC3500 · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 2,806

I think I'm aiming to be mostly in Indian creek

Mldunh1538 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

I'd be good with that. You'll have to show me the ropes on trad though. I've been a few times but wouldn't feel comfortable leading. I've mainly done sport

Mackenzie Bell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Anyone know if Willow Springs is still a decent spot to stealth camp?

Or is there a certain spot most folks camp to meet other climbers? Just heading out at the end of this month and hoping to tag along and help belay some folks for a trade in getting a belay myself.

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 460

Here's a map to what the current rules are. Not much left that is fair game for the thrifty. You can bet that the last best places will soon become regulated as well.…;RestrictionsSmaller.pdf

Anna Meteyer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

I'll be living in the creek on and off through all of October! I have a single rack, with doubles of 1's, 2's, and 3's. I am just learning to trad climb, but if you're willing to put up routes, I can follow up to 5.10+. I'm a solid lead belayer, can clean anchors, and will give u beer to put up top ropes. I also live in Moab and can show ya around if you're new here

Eli · · GMC3500 · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 2,806

I'll get in contact with you folks when I'm headed up there. Some things have changed since my original plans 1 month ago.

grog m aka Greg McKee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

If you chill at supercrack buttress, you should climb fingers in a light socket and get my 0.3 X4 back please! : D

Edit, and my finger please

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an… · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 115

dont you want the fingers back?

huwg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

Im chilling at site 2 superbowl andlooking for partners. Also was on fingers in a loght socket yesterday. No sign of the cam or your fingers. Sorry!

grog m aka Greg McKee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Was there any blood still?? I bled quite a bit on the ground at the base, and a bloody hand print on the wall at the base

Linda V · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

I'm going to be in Moab on Thursday for a little over a week. I have repeats of #1-3, and doubles of the larger cams. I'm looking to do 5.7-5.9 offwidth and hand sized cracks. This is my first time in Indian Creek and I've been climbing sandstone in the Red for the last couple of years. Where's the best gear shop to get info and find a partner?

Ball · · Oakridge, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 70

I have enough gear to lead most IC climbs and may be in the area come October. I usually wait until the temps are low-80s or lower.

May be keen for Monster tower or something else of that nature. FAs?

TXT five41-three59-nine212

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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