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Training for Finger Cracks

Original Post
Shep · · Grand Junction, Colorado · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20

Let's say I'm trying to send my finger crack project at the creek, what are the best exercises/workouts I should be doing to feel good on steep finger cracks?

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 348

Caz Drach · · Sugarhouse, UT · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 310

1.) Open desk drawer
2.) Insert fingers
3.) Slam desk drawer
4.) Open desk drawer
5.) Repeat steps 3 and 4 for every 2 feet of project for each hand
6.) Extract fingers
7.) Close drawer
8.) Ask your self why

In all seriousness Id like to know what other folks do as i do enjoy crack climbing...

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Do you have a crack machine or access to one? I'd say that would probably be your best bet.

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,475

Practice dead hangs on good locks, and try to find something that forces ring locks and practice those until your project seems like it won't be much fun anymore. Then you'll be ready to tackle it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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