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Most efficient way to stickclip rope solo?

Original Post
Trevor. · · Boise, ID · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 849

Let's say I want to get to the anchors on a sport climb to fix a line and MicroTraxion TR solo it, but I can't access the top anchor, and the climb is not logistically suited for free rope solo leading. Let's assume that the bolts are spaced enough that the pitch can't be conventionally aid soloed.

I've done it a few times before with a GriGri but my system was admittedly somewhat of a clusterfuck that I can't imagine was the best way of doing things. So now I ask you, Internet experts, what's the actual best way to get the rope up when I'm by myself? Let's assume I've got all the standard kit, including a collapsible stickclip, GriGri, Silent Partner, Ascenders, micro trax, ladders, etc.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530

Clip in direct, feed slack, stick clip next bolt, pull/jug up, repeat.

I usually fig-8/clove the first two bolts as an anchor.

A super clip is extremely helpful with this method- all the other stick clips i've used are fiddly- the super clip snaps draws in very quickly and requires no faffing about.

I can usually fix a 60-80' sport line in a few minutes with this method.

Kyle Edmondson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 20

I have done this frequently, the advice above is dead on. Keep it simple, and weight the rope on the bolt you have just clipped before you unclip from the bolt you are at. His time seems fast to me, it usually takes me around 15 minutes to get up a route.

closed · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

Why unclip as you go? Sure, its probably fine but on the other hand...…

T Roper · · the gym · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 865
Mitchelle Kelly wrote:Why unclip as you go? Sure, its probably fine but on the other hand...…
Hard to top out while clipped into a bolt eh?
Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 290

I dunno nothin' bout soloing, but ya might be able to cadge a belay off a someone who is then content to sit and suck up her coffee, leaving you to do your thing in peace until you give her a ride back to town.

Heard the big trip's soon! Have a blast!

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,348

In addition to what John said, you have to be very careful where you draw that extra slack from. Never add several arms length slack in the rope between the ground anchor and the solo belay device. If you do and the bolt you're standing on pulls before you stick clip the next bolt, you're going to whip big and possibly deck. Draw the slack after the solo belay device, not before.

Minor point, but major consequences if you mess it up.

Russ Keane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 150

Yikes, this sounds kinda scary. I'd figure out how to stay into more than one bolt at any given time.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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