Can't find video: People testing if they can catch a fall when the anchor is clipped


Original Post
ollieon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 5

I can't seem to find a youtube/vimeo video of a test rig where they drop a weight simulating a lead fall onto the anchor. The rope is clipped into one of the pieces in the anchor when they drop the weight.

I remember that everyone kept getting slammed into the wall after the weight was dropped. Does anyone have the link?

Related Will Gadd post: willgadd.com/anchor-clipping/

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 12,867

Haven't seen the video, but know that the RCS used to utilize the "Bucket Drop" as part of their belay test for their climbing course. The "bucket" weighed 85 - 90 lbs and was dropped with at least an arms length of slack in the belay between the belayer and the bucket.
Having a GROUND ANCHOR was essential to keep the belayer from becoming inverted and/or getting pulled into the drop zone for the falling bucket. EXCITING!

Firestone · · California · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 449
ollieon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 5

Hm, that's not quite the video. It was a montage of people catching falls and each time they'd get slammed into the 'wall'. It was a metal test rig, not an actual fall.

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

I can't see the suggested video, but the I think the one you are after was shot in Italy by a climbing club and was in an old quarry. I have tried searching for it, but no luck. Sorry.

coppolillo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BqFaeDugie8

Maybe this?

Marc Chauvin and I have a book coming out in March, 2017, that has a long section on anchors, pros/cons of clipping them for the leader and for the belayer. It's definitely more complicated than people think and the point at which you clip the anchors really affects the belayer.

Yeah, the above video didn't seem all that helpful, but maybe it's the one you're looking for? Epic soundtrack, nonetheless.

Our book will be called (I think--it's up to FalconGuides) "The Mountain Guide's Manual." We send it in 8 days. Translation: I should be writing and not wanking on MP!

Hope this helps--RC

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0
coppolillo wrote:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BqFaeDugie8 Maybe this? Marc Chauvin and I have a book coming out in March, 2017, that has a long section on anchors, pros/cons of clipping them for the leader and for the belayer. It's definitely more complicated than people think and the point at which you clip the anchors really affects the belayer. Yeah, the above video didn't seem all that helpful, but maybe it's the one you're looking for? Epic soundtrack, nonetheless. Our book will be called (I think--it's up to FalconGuides) "The Mountain Guide's Manual." We send it in 8 days. Translation: I should be writing and not wanking on MP! Hope this helps--RC
That wasn't the one I was thinking off, which of course might not have been the one the OP wanted anyhow.

The one I was thinking off has the belayer on a hanging belay. The weight is a tractor tire. The belayer gets well mashed with each test fall.
llanSan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

.

coppolillo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

Here's another one...manky looking cliff with a tire(s?) as the weight...

Give a look...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsP_XPjXN4Q&list=PL57i9rEkbr7msBUHxHtvO8y6g6cwZ8VUQ&index=3

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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