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What's your favorite thin crack shoe that can edge?

Ted Bradley · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 11

I'm also looking for a thin crack shoe (.75"). I don't care much about edging but my TC Pros and Katana lace-ups aren't fitting in my project crack.

I just spent the last hour visually inspecting the toe box of top climbing shoes for height. For example, check out the toe box height of these two shoes and note the difference:

I wanted to buy the 5.10 Moccasyms because of their reputation for performing in thin cracks, but since this thread was posted manufacturing was taken over by Adidas and build quality has plummeted.

Having looked at dozens of shoes, I'm going to give the Evolv Addict's a shot. Check out this picture from Outdoor Gear Lab evaluating the toe profile of Moccs vs Addicts. The Addicts actually hav an even shorter toe box height than the Moccs. 
Alek Fredriksson · · Millersville, MD · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 60
Ted Bradley wrote: I'm also looking for a thin crack shoe (.75"). I don't care much about edging but my TC Pros and Katana lace-ups aren't fitting in my project crack.

I just spent the last hour visually inspecting the toe box of top climbing shoes for height. For example, check out the toe box height of these two shoes and note the difference:I wanted to buy the 5.10 Moccasyms because of their reputation for performing in thin cracks, but since this thread was posted manufacturing was taken over by Adidas and build quality has plummeted.

Having looked at dozens of shoes, I'm going to give the Evolv Addict's a shot. Check out this picture from Outdoor Gear Lab evaluating the toe profile of Moccs vs Addicts. The Addicts actually hav an even shorter toe box height than the Moccs. 

Unparallel Up Mocc? I've had multiple pairs, they're basically the 5.10 moccs but with a few minor tweaks 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 212

Moccs are fine.  I’ve had two pairs since the Adidas switch and neither fell apart.  If they do, send ‘em back and they’ll replace them.  Evolv rubber is shit compared to C4.  Was talking to Dale (Stonemaster who helped design the Anasazi when he worked at 5.10) recently who said 5.10 has always had QC issues.  *shrug*
What I’m wondering is sizing...I’m worried I may have gone too tight.  My current pair of Moccs are US12 (street size: 13) and they are incredibly comfortable for long multipitch, but because of my Egyptian toe my 2nd/3rd toes are always slightly knuckled, making tight #1s incredibly painful.

John Reeve · · Durango, formely from TX · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 5
Ted Pinson wrote: Moccs are fine.  I’ve had two pairs since the Adidas switch and neither fell apart.  If they do, send ‘em back and they’ll replace them.  Evolv rubber is shit compared to C4.  Was talking to Dale (Stonemaster who helped design the Anasazi when he worked at 5.10) recently who said 5.10 has always had QC issues.  *shrug*
What I’m wondering is sizing...I’m worried I may have gone too tight.  My current pair of Moccs are US12 (street size: 13) and they are incredibly comfortable for long multipitch, but because of my Egyptian toe my 2nd/3rd toes are always slightly knuckled, making tight #1s incredibly painful.

Have you sent any moccs back?  2 month old pair is tearing through the leather on the outdside near the heel and I am curious if it's worthwhile to bother with sending them back or if I should find someone who works on shoes to add some fabrice/stiches... it's clearly bad material and not just normal wear.

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 636
Ted Bradley wrote: I'm also looking for a thin crack shoe (.75"). I don't care much about edging but my TC Pros and Katana lace-ups aren't fitting in my project crack.

FWIW the kataki seems to have a lower volume in the big toe knuckle area vs. than katana lace. I'm able to wiggle them into a tight .75 easier than I was in the katana, despite the kataki actually being sized smaller. 

Kief Manning · · Elgin, AZ · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

I got a pair of old boreal diabolos that are just as comfortable as could be they are stretched a bit now more than I thought but can wear them all day. And I think they only cost me about $50

Edit just looked up the new ones and look way different from the old ones. But I love my oldies

Ryan Pfleger · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 20

How are you guys sizing Katakis for thin cracks? When sized with some toe curl they cause some pain on handcracks.

Brian Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 482
Ryan Pfleger wrote: How are you guys sizing Katakis for thin cracks? When sized with some toe curl they cause some pain on handcracks.

snug but with no toe curl. agree they are the best thin crack+all around shoe I've used

Jason4Too · · Bellingham, Washington · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

I bought the Katakis for the same purpose.  I bought them in the same size as my TC Pros.

Stu Hopkins · · Logan, UT · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 30

10/10 ls katakis. Best crack shoe I have ever worn

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 636
Ryan Pfleger wrote: How are you guys sizing Katakis for thin cracks? When sized with some toe curl they cause some pain on handcracks.

1.5 down from street/approach. So a half size larger than my old testarossa in a tight fit. 

Jon Rhoderick · · Redmond, OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 916

Earlier this year I tested Katana Lace, Mocc, Skwama, Finale, TC Pro, and Mythos in my .75 and .5 sized crack machine. The shoes that jammed the thinnest were the Sportiva Finales. They have a very similar profile to Moccs in height and sole outline, and the laces and heel are much more secure. 

Jason4Too · · Bellingham, Washington · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0
Ryan Pfleger wrote: How are you guys sizing Katakis for thin cracks? When sized with some toe curl they cause some pain on handcracks.

My TC Pros in a 44.5 are great for hand cracks, my Katakis in the same size are great for finger cracks but hurt a bit in a hand crack.

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 120

Anasazi vcs for the same reasons as kata(ki/an)s but if you have short big toes. Thin cracks all hit well below the lower strap. Less ideal for anything hands and up. I go as small as possible without toe curling.

GabeO · · New Haven, CT · Joined May 2006 · Points: 302
Ted Bradley wrote: I'm also looking for a thin crack shoe (.75"). I don't care much about edging but my TC Pros and Katana lace-ups aren't fitting in my project crack.

If you can get your hands on a pair of Five Ten Supermocc - these are the best shoes for this.  In .75 size cracks they're like cheating.


One word of warning - they're nearly impossible to resole, because they don't have a proper midsole (which is part of what makes them so thin).


Cheers!

GO
wcayler · · Chico CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 224
Jason4Too wrote:

My TC Pros in a 44.5 are great for hand cracks, my Katakis in the same size are great for finger cracks but hurt a bit in a hand crack.

Katakis are being discontinued. They are a great show for this and edging 

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 210

Skwarmas are great in fingers and edge pretty well being an aggressive shoe. 

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
Jon Rhoderick wrote: Earlier this year I tested Katana Lace, Mocc, Skwama, Finale, TC Pro, and Mythos in my .75 and .5 sized crack machine. The shoes that jammed the thinnest were the Sportiva Finales. They have a very similar profile to Moccs in height and sole outline, and the laces and heel are much more secure. 

Every crack machine I've seen climbs like a sandstone splitter. 


Your test is informative for pure splitters but for something you also need to edge on, you'd need a different shoe.

I think someone should take 10 of the most popular models to Bishops Crack and report back.
reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

I'm cautiously optimistic that the new Scarpa Vapor Lace could become a contender (though I've decided to stock up on Katakis), with all the talk about how much stiffer it'll be (and the mention of construction taken from Boostic, which is the best edging shoe I've ever worn by a wide margin). The current yellow model has the right toe box profile but is much too soft (after break-in) and the previous (orange) model, while stiff enough, had a high profile toe box.

Stu Hopkins · · Logan, UT · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 30
Ryan Pfleger wrote: How are you guys sizing Katakis for thin cracks? When sized with some toe curl they cause some pain on handcracks.

The beauty of an aggressive shoe like the Kataki is that you do not have to size it down. The arch will actively push your toes into the end even if they are big. I wear a size 42.5 Kataki for cracks and 42.5 TC Pro. I wear a size 10 US street shoe. And to rehearse, the LS Katakis is my favorite shoe I have ever worn.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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