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Rumney Camping/favorite sport routes


Original Post
Billy Clyde · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 55

What are the best places to camp in Rumney and I'd like to hear some climbers favorite sport routes in the area of any grade just so I can get a good idea of some routes to get on. Thanks!

ward smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295

Tell us the grades you are looking for and you will get more replies than you can handle.

Kevin Heckeler · · Upstate New York · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,411

Camping near Rumney gets discussed here about as often as the routes...

mountainproject.com/v/campi…

^^^ I found this doing a search for Rumney Camping. Imagine what "Rumney Routes" will find!

Luke Lindeman · · Lancaster, PA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0
ward smith wrote:Tell us the grades you are looking for and you will get more replies than you can handle.
Trust this guy.
MojoMonkey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 68
Kevin Heckeler wrote:Camping near Rumney gets discussed here about as often as the routes... mountainproject.com/v/campi… ^^^ I found this doing a search for Rumney Camping. Imagine what "Rumney Routes" will find!
Or playing with the Classic Climbs section or Route Finder for Rumney
Billy Clyde · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 55

I have looked at all the classic routes on this website and I have the guidebook as well. I've also done a bit of research for rumney campgrounds but I'm looking to hear from people's personal experience what's up. I would be climbing anything from a 5.6-5.10c

Billy Clyde · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 55

what are people's opinions on the Baker river campground

Bryan Gall · · New Castle, CO · Joined Sep 2002 · Points: 260

The baker river campground is awesome. Try to score one of the beach sites. Nice sand beach to enjoy brews on after a day of climbing. Super friendly owner.

Troy S · · Somerville, MA · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 75

For camping: Baker, Rattlesnake and D'Acres are all good spots with varying perks, I believe they all charge $10 per day. Rattlesnake is directly across the street from the crag so best spot accessibility wise, downside is there's no shower. D'Acres is a pretty cool spot - permaculture farm/hostel with a stunning landscape and all kinds of cool artwork installations, farm animals, $2 indoor shower, and they serve breakfast/coffee with veggies/meat right from the farm. You'll most likely run into some other climbers and it's a pretty cool scene. Downside is the phone service is pretty non-existent though they do have wi-fi.
For climbs:
Millennium Falcon is one of the more exciting 10c's that I've done. A bit more adventurous in the approach/belay department given it's location on the ledge. A couple other great climbs with easier approaches include Romancing the Stone and No Money Down.
Misdemeanor is a pretty solid 10b line close to NMD that was just bolted last year (formerly trad) and there's also a 10a to the right of it called Rhinobucket that's worth getting on.
My favorite 10a so far is probably Masterpiece at Bonsai crag with my favorite 5.9+ right next to it War and Peace.
Yoda is one of the more memorable 9's that I've done and there's also a pretty stout 9+ near it called Obi Won Ryobi. Vader crag is a short walk from Bonsai.
I haven't climbed tons of 5.8's but Junco at Jimmy Cliff is a pretty great climb with one of Rumney's best 10a's right next to it - Lonesome Dove. There are a handful of other tens at Jimmy Cliff that are also definitely worth getting on and you should probably also do Clippity Do Dah (5.3) while you're up there.

ward smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295
Billy Clyde wrote:I have looked at all the classic routes on this website and I have the guidebook as well. I've also done a bit of research for rumney campgrounds but I'm looking to hear from people's personal experience what's up. I would be climbing anything from a 5.6-5.10c
5.5 - Shine On
5.6 - Model Citizen
5.7 - Crowd Pleaser, After all this Time
5.8- Metamorphisis, Junco
5.9 - Yoda, Cozenedstone
5.9+ Cold Shoulder (aka Smokestack), War and Peace, Hippos on Parade, Lies and Propaganda
5.10a Underdog, B-b-buttress direct finish, Jolt, Masterpiece, Lonesome Dove
5.10b. Armed and Dangerous, Sesame Street, Misdemeanor
5.10c. Romancing the Stone, Millenium Falcon, Skunks in the Gym
5.10d. Waimea, Peer Pressure, Centerpiece
Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 750

How did we ever choose what to climb before the Internet ?

Kevin Heckeler · · Upstate New York · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,411
Michael Schneider wrote:How did we ever choose what to climb before the Internet ?
There was climbing before the internet??

I thought Al Gore put up all those routes.
june m · · elmore ,vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 43

You walked up to the crag and got on what looked good, or sometimes I just go chasing bail biners. Or if I see fresh lichen on the ground , its a new route. Thats worthy of exploration

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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