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Bolted multi-pitch, not swapping leads: anchor tactics

Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740

I've belayed seconds off my belay loop with the rope remaining separate from the anchor and running through a biner on the master point, like top rope style. I choose this way for belaying weaker climbers/newbs. It allows me to kip up on the rope so I can get my weight into the system to help pull them up when they're having trouble. But with this way, you now have to worry about escaping the belay, which wouldn't be difficult in the least.

Kevin DB · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 295

If I have good anchor bolts I used the tried and tested anchor setup called 'two quickdraws.' Really I think your original plan is fine. Keep it simple for your partner.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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