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Castleton Tower 8/17-8/20

Original Post
Dan Evans · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 85

Hi all,

I'm on a roadtrip until 8/20, slowly making my way home towards Arizona and was thinking about trying to bag a desert tower to cap off the trip. It seems the weather is starting to cool off a bit (as in not in the 100+ deg) and with some afternoon shade or early morning starts we may be able to beat the heat (plus no lines?).

I am currently comfortable leading 5.8 trad and am slowly working into the .9's. I would prefer to partner up with someone who is climbing stronger than me as most of the routes it appears are in the 9+/10a range. I will also follow up to 10b/c trad if you want to do a different route, but I am currently looking at the Korengall Route (.9+).

I am a certified EMT-b and have taken multiple privately guided AMGA multipitch/self-rescue courses. I'll be in Durango, CO the next few days but can head over depending on your availability.

Let me know, thanks!

Dan Evans

NickO · · Utah · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 35

For some perspective if you haven't climbed in the desert before. At the time I was leading 10's on potash road. Kor Ingals was terrifying and felt super hard given my lack of chimney/OW experience. Best of luck

Dan Evans · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 85

Fair enough thanks. I'm up for North Chimney too. Sounds like it is a bit easier.

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 460

Not sure N. Chimney is easier. Different but probably not easier.

Corey O. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 70

Go for Kor Ingals. Pitches 1,2 and 4 are fine. You'll have no problem. Pitch 3 is hard but I am skinny and was able to squeeze into the crack and chimney up instead of taking the OW crux head on. What's the worst that can happen?

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 378
Corey O. wrote: What's the worst that can happen?…
Corey O. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 70

I didn't mention it before but it was on P3 when I took a little fall at the crux, tore my labrum, and dislocated my shoulder. Once I popped it back in, and realized I wasn't going to be able to do the crux move, then I squeezed in the crack. Fun times on a fun route! =)

KevinCO · · Loveland, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 60

Definitely do Castelton! But find a partner that can do most of the leading.

Even though I had climbed at Vedauwoo a lot, leading the third pitch OW crux stumped me, so I laybacked past it. The calcite was glass smooth, but extra opposition and small moves worked.

George Bell · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 5,030

Kor Ingalls is south facing and can be quite warm mid-day. With an alpine start, though, you will probably be in the shade the entire route.

The first time I climbed the route I started the approach at sunrise and rope soloed the route. Nobody else showed up at the base until I was on the 4th pitch. But that was in April, not August; I imagine most people start pretty early in August.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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