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How do you like this tether/ rappel extension ?


Original Post
Eric Moss · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 95
The two belay-biner loops are created by a frost knot sorta thing in the middle of the webbing. Basically, you fold the webbing over in one direction, then back, and tie an overhand loop in the three layers between the two folds.

It is redundant for rappel mode, when both biners are clipped to the harness. It can be used as a tether. The tether can be extended by untying the frost knot.
NateC · · Utah · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

It seems like an overly complicated solution to a scenario that has many simpler, lighter alternatives already established.

Matt N · · Santa Barbara, CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 273

A problem in search of a problem.

Eric Moss · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 95
NateC wrote:It seems like an overly complicated solution to a scenario that has many simpler, lighter alternatives already established.
This is quite simple, for me at least.

I like to climb heavy, so others can keep up ;)

Those middle loops should maybe be shorter so I can get better extension without untying.
ViperScale · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 235

I would assume it would never balance a load on the anchor. It will always be pulling on one more than the other since there is basically 2 knots at the anchor point (even if there isn't the strands coming off it will pull more to one side or the other creating imbalance vs always pulling on the knot downward and balancing it out).

Medic741 · · Red Hook, New York · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 265

Why not use a double runner that you're already carrying up the route as an alpine runner?

Introducing complexity leads to accidents. Find the simplest solution, do it the same way every time...

Eric Moss · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 95

On second thought, I don't need a redundant connection to the belay biner since I'm using a shunt to back the rappel, and the shunt is connected to the belay loop.

Sean Haynes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 101

Since you asked, i dont like it.

Medic741 · · Red Hook, New York · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 265

What.

Eric Moss · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 95
sean.haynes wrote:Since you asked, i dont like it.
I don't like it anymore, myself. If I didn't have the shunt, I'd still like it.
ViperScale · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 235

Your still safer / better off with a single strand of webbing with a single water knot tying them together. Than all you have to do is tie an overhand for the master point and it is redundant, balanced, and safe.

Less knots in the system the better since knots are where they will always fail first.

Eric Moss · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 95

What was I thinking?!

I should have been using the BoB instead of the frost knot thingy to create the middle (belay biner) loops. Muuuuuch better!

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530

I never understood the appeal of an extended rappel setup. I suppose it works nicely if you're guiding someone and you want to set them up before you go down, but yeah, not a fan of the concept and this looks like an overly complicated version of an already overly complicated solution to a non problem.

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 268

I disagree, great idea. Here is an alarm clock you might like.

Eric Moss · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 95
John Wilder wrote:I never understood the appeal of an extended rappel setup. I suppose it works nicely if you're guiding someone and you want to set them up before you go down, but yeah, not a fan of the concept and this looks like an overly complicated version of an already overly complicated solution to a non problem.
It's for paranoid guys like me who want to eliminate the possibility of rappel failure due to flipping upside down, which can happen with the leg-loop prusik and no rappel extension.
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,745
NateC wrote:It seems like an overly complicated solution to a scenario that has many simpler, lighter alternatives already established.
True. But if he adds a 3rd leg to it and throws in a few clove hitches, he can flip it upside down and make a superduper, equalizing, Moss-o-lette anchor out of it. It's GOT to be better than anything else out there. I mean, just LOOK AT IT.
Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 90

In rappelling, it seems that failure in the area you're trying to fix, is not very common. Check, double check, triple check. Don't get caught being complacent. Knot the ends of the rope.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530
Eric Moss wrote: It's for paranoid guys like me who want to eliminate the possibility of rappel failure due to flipping upside down, which can happen with the leg-loop prusik and no rappel extension.
What? No, that's not a thing.

I cannot imagine a scenario where you would or could invert on rappel with a leg loop autoblock and the device on your belay loop.
Sam Stephens · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,015

What the fuck

Brandon.Phillips · · Portola, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 55

I don't like it either.

Try a double length sewn nylon sling. Your attachment to the belay device doesn't have to be redundant. Drop the shut and back it up with a sterling hollow block. If you have an extension an auto block can and should be off your belay loop, rather than the leg loop.

Brandon.Phillips · · Portola, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 55

on second thought:
Why?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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