Claiming blank rock
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Hello fellow bolters, |
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Send the route. |
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Evan Wisheropp wrote: Perhaps I overstepped or perhaps he snoozed too long. What does it take for you to claim ownership of a blank chunk of rock? How would you resolve this dispute diplomatically?I don't think you overstepped anything. This guy sounds like a jerk; only jerks threaten to chop, or chop, a route because they didn't get off their ass and do it first, or even show-up to help. Don't argue with him, show him this thread and let him argue with us. P.S. Kudos for using Ti. |
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He didn't have the motivation to go up there and clean and inspect the route. |
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If somebody else chops those bolts first---!---He's gonna be really pissed! |
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At this point FAs don't matter anymore, especially for 1 pitch sport routes. Nobody has ownership of the rock. Good effort contributing to the community through a new route. That's the important part. Chopping bolts is so 1988. |
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Are these bolts on outside corner? Better put a plaque up and chop it too. |
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People seem to have different views when it comes to route projects. A few years back at a more recently developed area we saw a potential line then noticed some anchors to the side. We climbed what we thought was the line for the anchors on gear. Not the greatest line and it seemed out of style as the FA party was mostly known for well bolted routes but whatever. The anchors bolts had been up for four years at that point. |
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Nathan Self wrote:If somebody else chops those bolts first---!---He's gonna be really pissed!HA! : ) |
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Hope this all works out Evan. Humboldt has too small of a climbing community for this stuff. |
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John Wilder wrote:Whoever gets there first, wins. It is what it is- if you want it that bad, get your ass out of bed earlier and go bolt the line.Not entirely. There are open lines of communication. People talk and they mention routes they'd like to do. I did eyeball a route a friend had been talking about for a while. That was enough to motivate him to get it done. I've also abandoned a route I put anchors on top of and was planning to do. When someone else did it, I was psyched. So no, not just first come first serve, more of a community collaboration. The only reason I can see to get all huffy was if he'd been working it as a trad climb and you went and threw bolts into it. That doesn't sound like the case here, it sounds like he's an insecure weenie. |
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Pinklebear wrote:You got there first and put in the work, it's your route. I applaud your spirit in trying to include this other guy in the FA, but if he's going to be jerk about it I think you've done your best: you can now redpoint with a clear conscience. The whole "I looked at that" attitude barely even flew in the 1990s, much less so now. I remember when people used to just drill the first three bolts on a prospective line at Rifle then red-tag just that. Glad those days are long behind us!I just can say it better. |
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It's whomever first verbalizes intention. This ethic and respect goes back to Kor and Carter. It's a foundational FA assertion that has actually held in the upper courts. |
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the Descender wrote:It's whomever first verbalizes intention. So then how long can they sit on the route or forget about it before they miss out? Can they hog it forever while they move on to other things? I'll go and claim all my potential routes around here then (not really). |
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the Descender wrote:It's whomever first verbalizes intention. This ethic and respect goes back to Kor and Carter. It's a foundational FA assertion that has actually held in the upper courts.Nonsense. |
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What a dick! |
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Evan Wisheropp wrote: So then how long can they sit on the route or forget about it before they miss out? Can they hog it forever while they move on to other things? I'll go and claim all my potential routes around here then (not really).It's not until the claimant dies - but before you start cleaning and bolting "their line", you have to have a copy of their death certificate. There is one caveat: No Greenies are ever allowed to bolt in WYO. Period. I think I'm Grandfathered in, but for the rest of you it's a big no-no! On that, I claim the north side of Big Rock in the SPlatte. Also, all open crack lines on Reese Mtn in the Laramie Range. If anyone has some extra bolts and hangers I could borrow, that'd be awesome! |
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climbing friend, |
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highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote:Send the route. It's way too much work to chop glue ins. I bet he's blowing hot air.Yeah uhhh, so hard to chop a piece of metal. Uh huh. |
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There he comes again, he's he ok?.......... |
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If the rock is blank why would anyone want to claim it? |