Questions about NRG

Original Post
Johnathan C · Jul 12, 2016 · Missouri · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 35
I'm in the neck of the woods this week and want to climb at New River Gorge. The area has a lot to offer, but since I only have a day I want to know what's best. What a loaded and subjective question... Here's what we're looking at:

1. It's hot. Areas with shade or where we can easily chase shade as the sun moves is great.
2. Low to moderate routes. I'm coming off a bad knee injury and the person I'm with isn't climbing above 5.10
3. We just got a day, so whatever is easiest to hit and offers a day of climbing without having to drive a lot between routes.

Anything y'all have to share will be really helpful! Otherwise, I'll just figure something out :)


mission · Jul 13, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 0
Assuming you are sport only:

1. Kaymoor has a lot of shade, while Summersville offers shade in selected areas and a very nice lake to cool off in. Upper Meadow has a few mediocre tens and is a long walk but has some shade. Cotton Top is total shade but small.
2. Kaymoor has several quality 5.10s. Bubba City offers lots of easy stuff, all of it very sunny. Summersville has a good amount of 5.10 or lower, though the best of it is extremely sunny. All of these areas are likely to be quite crowded. Cotton Top has just 3 easy routes on MP that are listed in the guidebook, so although this is a less popular area, it can get crowded with just two groups.
3. The lake is probably the signature area for this level of climbing at the New. Kaymoor is also a good choice if you are comfortable with basically only 5.10s (the easiest sport route is 5.9). Be warned, though, that everyone else knows this too.

Johnathan C · Jul 13, 2016 · Missouri · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 35
Oh good point about sport, I have all my trad gear, but I don't have my heart set on trad climbing, sport is just as fine! Thanks for the info, mission, I'll be sure to look into those areas

Hnryclay · Jul 13, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0
JunkYard wall is shady, and almost entirely below 5.10. Lots of moderates and can be toproped. Short hike in, but very popular on the weekends for the reasons above. Only one sport route all trad and top rope.

Jake Jones · Jul 13, 2016 · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 763
Hnryclay wrote:JunkYard wall is shady
Not really. It is at the end and the beginning of the day, but it gets sun almost all day.

Anything on the south side of the rivers will offer more shade than the other side. Kaymoor, South Side of the Meadow, etc. Just go to the lake. Get out early.

Johnathan C · Jul 16, 2016 · Missouri · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 35
We ended up going to Bubbas. Had a blast. Thanks for the info everyone!

Interestingly enough, I've ready elsewhere that Bubba's is one of the the worst crags at New River. So if that's the worst, I can't wait to check out some of the rest!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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