Grand Teton NP - Dissappointment Peak - Irenes Arete/East Ridge conditions?


Original Post
Jay Morse · · Hooksett, New Hampshire · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 30

Hi all,

I'll be on a road trip and was hoping to climb Irenes and the East Ridge standard route around July 8-10. Does anyone know if I should expect any snow or ice on either of these climbs or on the descent? Thanks!

Cameron Sumpter · · Lander, WY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 33

Hi Jay,

I climbed the east ridge on disappointment on Saturday and I think the decent is still made safer with an ice axe. As long as you descend when the snow softens up you could leave the crampons in the car. I heard the meadows are melting out but someone who has hiked Garnet lately would know better.

Eben Freeman · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 0

You don't need crampons and axe for the approach, or for the descent down the SE ridge to Amphitheater lake. The SW couloir descent back to the Caves looked pretty snowy (photo below taken Thursday 6/23).

Irene's 6/23

Prametheus · · Jackson, WY · Joined May 2013 · Points: 35

Irene's Arete Condition Report:

Climbed today, 6/29, and used ice axe on the approach and the descent.

Approach: There was no boot pack across a mandatory snowfield and we were both much more comfortable crossing steep snow with an axe. Would have been sketchy without an axe.

Descent (SE Ridge towards Amphitheater): While not totally necessary, our axes came in handy for a short stint.

Consensus: Bring it just to be safe. If you don't want to bring an axe then climb Open Book (or go home).

JayMorse: By July 8th, I imagine an axe will not be necessary. It is amazing how quickly snow melts. Hopefully someone else can provide solid beta before then.

Have Fun!

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 12,603
JayMorse wrote:Hi all, I'll be on a road trip and was hoping to climb Irenes and the East Ridge standard route around July 8-10. Does anyone know if I should expect any snow or ice on either of these climbs or on the descent? Thanks!
Edit...ahhh...East Ridge of Disappointment...can be snow on the traverse back to the descent but, in the pm, usually soft. I'd probably take an axe for safety. Some don't. A fall could be really bad or inconsequental.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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