Comfortable Harness Suggestions


Original Post
BrokenChairs · Jun 22, 2016 · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 177
So for awhile I have been using the Mammut Ophir and yesterday after three pitches of hanging belay I have noticeable soreness right above my hips and it was all in all not a great experience. I was wondering if anyone could throw some harness suggestions my way for a super comfortable, light, good gear loop position and an all around good harness? I read through this article but was hoping someone could give me some personal experience on these or offer other harnesses that they like. Thanks for the input.

http://www.climbing.com/gear/review-our-top-5-climbing-harnesses/

Nick Drake · Jun 22, 2016 · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 413
The last gen momentum actually caused bruises at my pelvic bone after a long day of semi hanging belays. Different harnesses work better for different people, you have to really get in a shop and hang in them.

I got a deal on one of the dead bird harnesses. It's been comfortable to hang in, but is flexible enough to disappear while free climbing.

bearded sam · Jun 22, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 0
a few things to consider in harnesses. They have basically been made in two ways for years. A momentum and most economy harnesses are made using a piece of webbing as the support and safety, then it is padded to try to make it more comfortable. The Petzl $70 and up, as well as the new Solution harness from BD, use a frame type system. This runs on the top and bottom of the waist and legs to try and "spread" out the support. The high end BD harnesses, the Arcteryx harnesses and the new high end Petzl all use some sort of "spread out" webbing or full frame where the entire waist belt and legs are providing support. Crazy comfort, usually lighter and more packable but more expensive materials and production costs. Basically, you get what you pay for.

Ryan Hamilton · Jun 22, 2016 · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0
bearded sam wrote:a few things to consider in harnesses. They have basically been made in two ways for years. A momentum and most economy harnesses are made using a piece of webbing as the support and safety, then it is padded to try to make it more comfortable. The Petzl $70 and up, as well as the new Solution harness from BD, use a frame type system. This runs on the top and bottom of the waist and legs to try and "spread" out the support. The high end BD harnesses, the Arcteryx harnesses and the new high end Petzl all use some sort of "spread out" webbing or full frame where the entire waist belt and legs are providing support. Crazy comfort, usually lighter and more packable but more expensive materials and production costs. Basically, you get what you pay for.
I second the BD Solution harness. I haven't worn it, but I have a very similar Arc'teryx harness. At the last Outdoor Retailer show I noticed that most companies are moving to that same thin padding, but wide support style. It is very comfortable. I have hung in the Arc'teryx harness for hours on aid climbing hanging belays. The only caveat there is the BD Solution doesn't have rear gear loops, just the standard 2 on each side and I really like having the rear loops for trad and aid climbing. If you're just sport climbing the rear loops aren't all that needed.

Boots Ylectric · Jun 22, 2016 · Chicago IL · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 25
Misty Mountain Cadillac all the way.

Noah Yetter · Jun 22, 2016 · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10
BD Solution is very light and comfortable but I hate the gear loops. Widely available (e.g. at REI) so you can try it on and see if it suits you.

Seth Jones · Jun 22, 2016 · New Lenox, IL · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5
One that fits. I had similar soreness in a MM Cadillac but the Ophir doesn't hurt me. It's all about what fits your body best.

Sam Stephens · Jun 22, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 740
Misty Mountain Turbo or Misty Mountain Cadillac. Turbo is my favorite all arounder, but I grab the Cadillac when I know I'll be in several hanging belays all day.

Ted Pinson · Jun 22, 2016 · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 40
Ha...I was wondering how far this thread would get before the Misty was brought up.

that guy named seb · Jun 22, 2016 · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0
MY black diamond chaos is pretty good, a tad on the stiffer side and could do with a single extra gear loop on the back but apart from that it's pretty damn good.

Hunter McPherson · Jun 22, 2016 · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0
Both the Black Diamond Chaos and Arcteryx AR-395 are incredibly comfortable. I opted for the Arcteryx because I prefer the huge gear loops. At $160, it's a little pricey, but look for deals online and you can find one for ~$125

Curt Shannon · Jun 23, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 0
Boots Ylectric wrote:Misty Mountain Cadillac all the way.
Very comfortable, but heavy and (if you climb in high temp areas) hot.

Curt

Ben Stabley · Jun 23, 2016 · Portland, OR · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 88
I can concur that the AR-395 is a good harness, and comfy for it's packability. I also have an even more comfy BD Big Gun that I use for general cragging and things with short approaches.

Scott Bennett · Jun 23, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 945
I just recently used the Cassin Warden harness, and I think it's a good option to consider. It's marketed as a "big wall" harness, with 6 gear loops and 2 extra attachment points on the swami for daisy chains. I found that it's definitely light and comfortable enough for a day of multi-pitch free climbing, and makes hanging belays painless.

I was using it for climbing on El Cap, mostly in one day pushes, and I definitely appreciated the plush swami for all the up and down of aiding and jugging.

Just a note on sizing: they run big. I normally wear medium (~31" waist), but I'm in the small warden and I still need to tighten it all the way.

Here's a review (not mine) with a little video:
http://blog.weighmyrack.com/cassin-camp-warden-big-wall-climbing-harness/

-Scott

Ryan Hamilton · Jun 23, 2016 · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0
Scott Bennett wrote:I just recently used the Cassin Warden harness, and I think it's a good option to consider. It's marketed as a "big wall" harness, with 6 gear loops and 2 extra attachment points on the swami for daisy chains. I found that it's definitely light and comfortable enough for a day of multi-pitch free climbing, and makes hanging belays painless. I was using it for climbing on El Cap, mostly in one day pushes, and I definitely appreciated the plush swami for all the up and down of aiding and jugging. Just a note on sizing: they run big. I normally wear medium (~31" waist), but I'm in the small warden and I still need to tighten it all the way. Here's a review (not mine) with a little video: blog.weighmyrack.com/cassin... -Scott
+1 on the Cassin Warden and the Arc'teryx AR-395. Both great harnesses.

Cameron Sumpter · Jun 23, 2016 · Lander, WY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 30
Another vote for the Misty!

Weston L · Jun 23, 2016 · Summerlin, NV · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 728
+1 for Cassin Warden. Like mentioned above, it is marketed as a big wall free climbing harness....I have a particularly bad back and it makes hanging belays quite pleasant.

I also wear the Edelrid Orion, another great harness with a broad hip belt, light weight, and mega comfy. The leg loop attachment at the leg loop itself didn't feel burly enough for me to be confident in heavy use in trad scenarios, so I primarily use it as a sport harness.

Danger-Russ Gordon · Jun 23, 2016 · Tempe, AZ · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 200
another +1 for misty

Max Rausch · Jun 25, 2016 · Monterey, California · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 70
Misty Cadillac quick adjust is the way to go!!! I could hang in in this thing all day.

caddy

jc5462 · Jun 25, 2016 · Hereford, Arizona · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0
Yates Shield. I bought my first one in 1996 and bought my 4th one in 2014. Best comfort hands down

Rando Calrissian · Jun 26, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0
I use the Edelrid Orion. The webbing tape spreads out over the hip belt so you are more comfortable, and it has speed holes Flanders.
Speed holes flanders!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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