Rainier conditions (Liberty Ridge)

Original Post
Matt Zia · Jun 14, 2016 · Bozeman, MT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 66
Wondering if anyone has been up Liberty Ridge this season. Obviously conditions are likely changing daily with the current storm and forecasted high pressure next week. Looking for some beta on baseline conditions (if you can call them that..), eg how'd this wet winter treat the mountain, etc. The climbing rangers blog hasn't been updated in a while..

mediocre · Jun 14, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0
I might be wrong, and I might be an asshole, but if you're asking this on MP, stay off Liberty Ridge.

Gavin Walton · Jun 14, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0
You might be better off posting on Cascadeclimbers.com, lots more Rainier info there!

B-dog · Jun 15, 2016 · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 5
mediocre wrote:I might be wrong, and I might be an asshole, but if you're asking this on MP, stay off Liberty Ridge.
I wouldn't say asshole but... I'd take any condition beta I could find for LR and wouldn't care where it came from as long as it was semi-accurate.

Sorry OP, I haven't been up there recently nor have I been keeping up on conditions. Good luck!

Matt Zia · Jun 15, 2016 · Bozeman, MT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 66
mediocre wrote:I might be wrong, and I might be an asshole, but if you're asking this on MP, stay off Liberty Ridge.
So is everyone who checks in with the climbing rangers to get a conditions update before they climb unfit for the route?

I fully respect the fact that it's a huge freaking route with a ton of objective hazard in the wrong (and even sometimes the right) conditions. Maybe I'm wrong about this one, but it seems to me that there's a big difference between asking for climbing beta like, "should I bring two tools or a tool and an axe" and asking about current conditions. Last year the route melted out relatively early and rockfall was a big issue, especially low down. This year, snow levels are about the historical average.

And thanks Gavin! I posted here because cascadeclimbers hasn't been super active the past year or two, but I might throw a post there too

FrankPS · Jun 15, 2016 · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 15
I'll bet you could get good info from Rainier Mountain guides. Give 'em a call.


mediocre · Jun 15, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0
Hey I started with "I may be an asshole..." But just to clarify, I would deffinetly check in with rangers, Ive seen a lot of shitty advice given on this website and on a route like that, I wouldn't trust some ass-clown who pretends to know what they're talking about.
But as long as you're saying this is supplemental beta, hope you have a good time. Sorry I came off as abrasive, I shouldn't drink and post.

Allen Sanderson · Jun 15, 2016 · Oootah · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,115
For whatever reason reports are few and farther between these days. A few weeks ago some folks were on Curtis Ridge but bailed because of having to skirt around due to a lack of snow that cost them too much time. To bail off they came down the Carbon. Their report is over on CC. I have not read other reports. And like you note the blog does not have that much info. Which is a shame because it used to have lot of info.

The issue you are going to find is the Carbon. It breaks up earlier and earlier. Even with a good snow pack. Most folks bivy right next to the glacier so they can figure out a path in daylight as doing it in the dark typically ends in false starts.

FWIW the last time I was on the Carbon was one March - never fell into so many cracks in my life. At one point my partner and I both went in a crack. Fortunately, different ones and with all we barely went in. We just started laughing and counting to see which one of us would find the most. Just after we stepped of the Carbon the whole of Willis shat.

For another source look at "Turns All Year" a lot of folk ski Furher Finger. If they are still skilling it, that will give you an idea what the cracks are like. Albeit on other side of the hill.

Nick Seaman · Jun 15, 2016 · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 80
Liberty Ridge 6/1/16

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High on Liberty Ridge

Climbed Liberty 5/31 - 6/2. It was in great shape. The carbon was tricky, with lots of end-running, but doable. The bottom of the ridge was melted out. We climbed direct to thumb on the Liberty wall side. There was moderate rockfall here. Climb fast and early. The upper route was perfect. Gaining Lib cap was hard...the easiest way we could find was 30-40' of WI4/4+. I placed 5 screws on this pitch. I hope it's still in shape for you!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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