Can you bail after the fierst pitch on matinee

Original Post
crackatoa Spiesbach · · Boulder,Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 70

Wondering if it's feasible to bail off matinee after P1 climbing with a partner who may not be able to follow and wanted to know if Getting up P2 was mandatory or if there was a tree/ chockstone at the end of P1. or even a down climb.

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

Though it has been years (decades, really) since I have been on it, but my memory is that the first pitch is a traverse to the top of a huge block that can be easily reached or exited by a scramble from the other side.

TLyons · · Lynbrook, NY · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 110

Im going to say no.
For p1 you need to place directionals for your second when belaying on the ledge. Getting them back may be difficult if your partner cant get there.
IMO the proud way to do the climb is in one nice long pitch.
Mind your rope drag and its all good.

chris_vultaggio · · The Gunks · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 480

If you clip the gear short but leave long slings hanging, your second should be able to pull through on gear. The troubles are over by the time they reach the pin (for your second's sake make sure to clip it even though it is easy terrain), and if they are entertaining following the pitch at technical 10d they shouldn't have any problem with the last bit at 5.8 or so (if I recall) where a fall would be of consequence to the blocky belay.

From there you can prob traverse from the blocks through the blackout and either finish on that or keep going to the Betty tree. Either way it sounds like a little creativity can get you through.

Stimpy · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 10

Yes, there is a 4th class scramble left to get onto Betty, then either continue up to the P1 belay or downclimb to the base. The only tricky part would be climbing around the line of people on Betty.

Like Chris said, you can sling your gear so your follower can aid through the traverse. Also, I think falling off during the traverse would swing your partner onto easier terrain, so they should be able to climb up to the belay without too much trouble.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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