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Bouldering in Yosemite/Tuolumne Meadows after June 20th?

Original Post
Samjay-E · · La Jolla, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

So I've been looking at taking a stop in Yosemite on my way home from San Francisco to do some Bouldering. But I noticed that the Tuolumne Meadows campground is closed until July 15th. I would rather avoid the crowds and 80+ degree temps down in the valley, but I'm not sure where to stay (or if its even worth it) if I wanted to climb up in Tuolumne.

Any thoughts on camping, or climbing conditions? Go to Tahoe instead?

Thanks in advance.

patto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 25

Bouldering in Yosemite, particularly in Tuolumne is like having a wank in a brothel.

Samjay-E · · La Jolla, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Unfortunately my trad climbing skills = 0, and partners = 0. So bouldering it is.

Mateo San Pedro · · OR · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 280

Don't listen to other people (who didn't even help answer your question, I'm looking at you Patto). Not all of us have the time or resources to get on El Cap every time we stop in the Valley. Patto is suggesting that if you can't get laid at the brothel, don't bother going. A wank is better than nothing. I guess Patto would rather wank themselves at home if they can't get on that rad Yosemite trad or aid pitch. Take a stop in Yosemite and do some bouldering! My guess is that the temperatures in the valley will be warm though, i.e. not ideal for sending anything. Tuolumne will probably be cooler temps and Tahoe likely the same as well. There was a recent "best alpine bouldering spots" on which mentioned a sweet area outside Twain Harte, CA. You could check that out too. Also, don't listen to cranky trad climbers about how bouldering in the Valley is sacrilege. They can screw. Climbing is fun. All kinds. Except maybe aid climbing.

Joe Manlove · · Sonora, CA · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 93

The area past Twain Hart mentioned at is Burst Rock. It's far from the only bouldering on Sonora Pass, it does have some of the cleaner rock, but the landings can be nasty.

There are also boulder fields scattered along the road from Sno park (10 or so miles from Strawberry) to Chipmunk Flat. If you're by yourself I'd suggest the boulders near Dardanelles, the landings are substantially flatter (Boulder Flat campground has several nice boulders). There's no guidebook and very little traffic so bring a brush.

Pump rock by forest road 5n06 is also worth a little visit, and most of the lines are in the shade until afternoon. Check out Chris Summit's book for beta.

Samjay-E · · La Jolla, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Okay, thanks. The spots in the article look pretty cool. Heading up to Lander later this year... Looking through some of the guide books for Tuolumne and Tahoe and trying to decide. Camping in Yosemite is probably going to be a bitch, but I'm not sure what the climbing around Tahoe is going to be like. I guess ill just have to see which one is more logical.

patto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 25
Samjay-E wrote:^Helpful... Unfortunately my trad climbing skills = 0, and partners = 0. So bouldering it is.
Having zero partners on arrival should rarely be a problem in Yosemite (sort of like the brothel analogy). I've never had partners when I've arrived and never had an issue finding people to climb with, even on the first day of arrival.

Having no trad climbing experience does make things more challenging. But if you find a suitable partner just ask them to be gentle.

Otherwise you could always consider paying a guide for a day. Really the Yosemite and trad experience is worth it. Get your cherry popped!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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