Will the G2 SM's be good for technical ice climbing?

Original Post
Mikeybarro · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 15

I'm relatively new to mountaineering/ice climbing. I bought some Salewa raven combi gtx as my first boots. But when I took them to Peru i ended up having to rent some doible boots because the salewas were obviously just too cold for 6000m. Now im starting to get into NH ice climbing a little bit. I plan on returning to Peru at some point in the future but in the mean time I'd like to be climbing some more technical ice in NH. In my next pair of boots im looking to get something that will thrive on vertical technical ice but still be warm enough for the occasional expedition climb--- a do it all boot. I was going to buy the batura 2.0 taking the risk that it would be warm enough as some people have reported. But then the g2sm's came out so now i can vertually get the exact same boot but in a double boot. Sounds fantastic to me. Is this logic sound or will I be sacrificing technical capability? Note* in the future I would like to use them to climb WI5-6 when i get to that level.

jon jugenheimer · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,049

People climb 6+ in 8000 boots, I am sure in the near future you will be just fine in the SMs

Chris Walden · · Soldotna, Alaska · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 640

1st & 2nd rules of Fight Club apply to Pro Deals. You will be fine in the G2's. I have the Trango Ice Cubes and the G2's. The G2's have a slim profile, super lightweight and very warm.

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 10

The G2 is clearly bulkier as seen here.



LS also specs them at >5oz heavier per boot (probably more if you have big feet). Weight on your feet feels heavier than anywhere else.

I would suspect you'd be much happier climbing waterfall ice or hiking in the Baturas if you had the choice on any given day. With that said, people have been climbing WI5+ in plastics for years, so the limiting factor will always be you. It just feels easier with better equipment. Just like you don't need the latest curvy handled mixed tool to climb vertical ice, but you might like it.

I think the main advantage of G2's for expedition climbing isn't so much the extra warmth but rather the ability to dry out the inner boot in your sleeping bag. Are you going to be camping in the cold for several days in Peru? FWIW I've worn the Baturas on some pretty arctic days in the Whites that I'm sure are comparable to typical temps at altitude in Peru, and my feet were toasty.

I'd personally get the boot that will work best for 90% of my climbing. But it's true the G2 will give you a bigger safety window in the cold and clearly double boots excel in expeditions even if they're less than ideal everywhere else.

christoph benells · · tahoma · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 235

you want both baturas and g2's...

probably should get some trango's too.

good luck on WI6!

Erik Werner · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 305

the G2s look like a baller boot. Unless you plan on leading WI5/6 soon, I'd say you're fine having them as your one pair. However, having a dedicated ice boot is so much nicer, especially as you get into mixed and drytooling.

Mike Lofgren · · Brighton · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 90

Three commonest boots (excluding Nepal Evo's) I saw in NH this year were the Batura, Nepal Cube's, and the Baruntse. I saw each climb WI5 or higher and each on hard looking mixed/dry tooling.

I bought Cube's and was very happy with them, though the temp never dropped below 10 F when I was out.

I also saw the G2's out on hard mixed and ice. Every owner said that they climbed great, but many said that their feet were cooking. Boot warmth is very dependent on the users foot circulation.

My Solution, as a gear junkie, is that my cube's work well for what I spend or will spend 95% of my time doing (i.e. Climbing steep ice and mixed in New England). If I need a warmer boot for an expedition, I'll buy that boot (probably Baruntse's. With my average warm feet, I'd buy Batura's over anything else for what I do (weight and warmth being the reasons). If my feet were constantly cold, I'd buy G2's. For now, the cubes work for me.

Damon Clark · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

Mikey... just going through the same dilemma... what did you go for and how did they work out ?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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