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Wild country REVO


Travis Provin · · Boulder CO · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 105

According to Wild Country it will be available for purchase in the US in May.

Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 10,146

Backcountry Gear are taking orders.

That page is now 404.

Brian L. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 90

According to Wild Country it will be available for purchase in the US in May.

According to backcountrygear.com: "Scheduled to begin shipping in July 2017. Now accepting pre-orders."

Sounds right if May is the release time for Europe, 1-2 months for US distribution seems reasonable.
SICgrips · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 80

Just got a note from Back Country saying:

Unfortunately, we received word from the manufacturer that the Revo's release date has been pushed back until Spring 2018. In light of this new information, all pre-orders for this product are being cancelled. I sincerely apologize for the inconvenience. This delay is because a design modification was necessary to guarantee the REVO’s performance across the widest possible spectrum of rope diameters.

James T · · Livermore · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 80

Huge bummer

Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 45

Aw dammit!

I was ssssoooooooooooooooo looking forward to getting my hands on it. All information I've been able to gather about it points to it being the holy grail of locking assist belay devices that I've been searching for for years.

Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 45

Oh man...

I hope the Wild Country Revo doesn't go the way of the DMM Grip or the DMM Chicane, belay devices that had protoypes and demo models to show off at gear shows, and even ads in climbing magazines, but upon production got cancelled due to the discovery of problems....

Please make it to market!

Please make it to market!!

Please make it to market!!!

Please make it to market!!!!

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 525

Manufacturers have been turning out belay devices for years that perform poorly at the extremes of the recommended rope range. Either the EVO is turning out to have a very limited range, or Wild Country is acting more responsibly than most.

Nick Hitchcock · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 35

given the recalls where they recall a product for slight statistical variations. ie the the stopper recall a while back. I would say they want to be sure...

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 205

Having no such issues in the UK can still preorder from numerous places have seen on puch back by a few months but that's only due to high demand.

Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 45

Having no such issues in the UK can still preorder from numerous places have seen on puch back by a few months but that's only due to high demand.

Huh?

I think there's some typos that need fixing....
Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

A brief trawl of the usual Euro webshops either say "unavailable", "delivery 15 Nov 2017" or it has been removed altogether (the most).

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456

Manufacturers have been turning out belay devices for years that perform poorly at the extremes of the recommended rope range. Either the EVO is turning out to have a very limited range, or Wild Country is acting more responsibly than most.
Spot on, as usual. The revo seems to be the holy grail of all single slot belay devices and that's really fucking exciting. However, I'd rather wait another year for a more flawless device than get one that's premature with lots of room to improve. Or worse, the manufacturer makes the slightest mistake resulting in a recall that could potentially kill the device's popularity and put it out of production.

Also, on a tangent, even the alpine smart, which does a better job of giving a reasonable range for rope diameters, can be a bit extreme at either end. The wider rope one is supposed to work down to 8.9mm. A climbing partner was rapping on a fixed line that seemed to be around the 9.1-9.4 range last thursday and he had a difficult time controlling the rap even with both hands on the brake.

Granted, this was a single strand, but it's also single strand catching falls on a single rope, where braking power is even more critical
Craig Childre · · Lubbock, Texas · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,950

Anyone else thinking this will become "the" rope solo device? 

Hope it lives up to the hype... looks genius to me.  I think Eli is on target with the braking power.  Seems the device locks and catching a fall wouldn't be an issue.  My guess, is they are reworking the friction aspect under load.  Get it perfect, the community will reward them with more orders than they can handle.

SICgrips · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 80

Yes, most definitely. At least for TR soling. Don't know re lead soloing. I suppose it partly depends upon the strength of the device.

cyclestupor · · Woodland Park, Colorado · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 93

SICgrips wrote:

Yes, most definitely. At least for TR soling. Don't know re lead soloing. I suppose it partly depends upon the strength of the device.

No, not definitely.  For top rope soloing you are probably better off using one of the commonly used TR solo devices.  For example, the Petzl Mini-trax, Trango Vergo, modified GriGri, Rock Exotica Soloist... the list goes on.

The Revo will be a lot like the Silent Partner.  It doesn't lock until the rope is zipping through it at a certain speed (i forgot what speed the Revo locks).  So if you use the Revo, or Silent Partner as a TR solo device, you could fall quite a ways before it locks.  This is why the Silent Partner is/was not recommended for use as a TR solo device.  It was created as a lead solo device only.    

Even if the Revo were to lock up quickly, it still wouldn't be ideal for TR soloing since it will have much more drag than say a micro-trax.  

If you are holding out to buy the Revo for TR Soloing you are going to be disappointed.  On the other hand, if you are looking for a smooth feeding super safe device that can still catch you even if your belayer is a complete idiot, then the Revo looks pretty promising.  It could work as a LEAD solo device too, but I'm not holding my breath.

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, Texas · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,950

cyclestupor wrote:

Great points...  I think this quote is where most of us are so far as excitement.  I use Gri Gri's, but never bought one, especially after I witnessed a noob misuse his, dropped his leader on his head, broken neck, and the leader had a fractured heel.  Plus a few other near misses.  Only take a GG belay from a handful of partners who I know are skilled in the art.

SICgrips · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 80

It all depends upon what you want and ones experience and the level of comfort with each situation and the technology at hand. I've tried most TR solo devices out there some are better than others but it depends upon the intended use and your comfort level with it. If I were "working" some moves at or above my RP level, then a microcender or mini-trax is good because of the positive lock without loosing much vertical ground. Same could be said it one were climbing with a lot of objective hazards to hit on the way down. If I'm just wanting to do laps and gain milage, then having something like a modded Grigri is good because you can lower as soon as you reach the top without having to switch devices. However it doesn't feed as well as some of the others. If little drag is one of your prime concerns, then the Camp Gremlin is ideal with two different modes of use.

The Revo, as mentioned, needs at least one revolution before it will lock. While for some that may be too much, it would seems not too much different than the auto-bely devices that I've climbed on it gyms. At least with my light weight I fall a couple feet before it builds up the speed to slow the lowering rate. If I were just wanting to do a lot of laps it would seem to be an ideal choice but time will tell. Potentially ideal (for me) because it behaves like a normal tube belay device for rapping/lowering as soon as you reach the top. 

It remains to be seen how much drag there is with the Revo for trailing on the rope. From videos I've seen it seems like little but could be wrong.

cyclestupor · · Woodland Park, Colorado · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 93

SICgrips wrote:

The Revo, as mentioned, needs at least one revolution before it will lock.  While for some that may be too much, it would seems not too much different than the auto-bely devices that I've climbed on it gyms. At least with my light weight I fall a couple feet before it builds up the speed to slow the lowering rate.

The Revo won't lock unless the speed is above a threshold (I don't remember what that threshold is).  Once it hits that threshold, the Revo may or may not have to complete 1 revolution before it catches.  Say the threshold is 2 m/s then you would have to fall a minimum of 0.2m before your fall speed would be 2 m/s (no big deal).  But if that threshold is higher, say 5 m/s then you would have to fall a minimum of 1.27m (4.16 ft) before it would catch.  If there is much rope drag through the Revo that distance could be significantly higher (since acceleration would be lower).  This is of course not including rope stretch.

I'm not saying the Revo (or the SP) wouldn't work for TR solo, or that it would be unsafe, just that it isn't ideal.  Why would you want your TR solo device to drop you 4 ft +?

If I were just wanting to do a lot of laps it would seem to be an ideal choice but time will tell. Potentially ideal (for me) because it behaves like a normal tube belay device for rapping/lowering as soon as you reach the top. 

What's wrong with a Trango Vergo (or even a Cinch).  it works great for lowering or rappelling, has very little drag, locks instantly, is available now, and is cheaper and lighter than the Revo will be.

It remains to be seen how much drag there is with the Revo for trailing on the rope. From videos I've seen it seems like little but could be wrong.

Yes it does remain to be seen, but I can't imagine any way it could have less drag than a Shunt, Micro-trax, Vergo, Cinch... or any of the other commonly used devices except for possibly a modified GriGri.  The reason is that the rope has to bend 180 degrees as it enters or exits the Revo.

If you want to use the Revo for a TR solo device, go for it, my very rough guess is that it will be safe (with a backup of course).  I'm just saying that it is probably not the "ultimate" TR solo device.

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, Texas · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,950

I'm rather new to the solo side of things... aside from theory :) ... so this is great information.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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