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top rope areas in little cottonwood


Original Post
zachary C · · Eden · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 5

hi everyone. im taking some noobs out climbing for their first time and we decided on little cottonwood canyon. ive never been to little cottonwood canyon before and was wondering if anyone new of some good areas there with high concentrations of easy to moderate climbs that will be easy and quick to set up some top ropes for them. any suggestions?

Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 70

Dogwood

Super Fluke · · Earth · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 186
Daniel Winder wrote:Dogwood
+1

Its located in Bic C, not Little C.

Not much TR in Little C.
Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

LCC is a bad choice. BCC is much better for toproping noobs. And yes, Dogwood. If you can get a belay, the Salt Lake Slips would be good too.

luke smith · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 50

^^^ Nice. To my knowledge there are no good beginner top-rope areas in Little. You want to go to Big Cottonwood for that. And Dogwood is a great suggestion.

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,122
zachary C wrote:hi everyone. im taking some noobs out climbing for their first time and we decided on little cottonwood canyon. ive never been to little cottonwood canyon before and was wondering if anyone new of some good areas there with high concentrations of easy to moderate climbs that will be easy and quick to set up some top ropes for them. any suggestions?
As has been suggested, don't do LCC, there is nowhere in LCC with good TR options, BCC on the other hand has plenty, and Dogwood or the Slips would probably be the best choices.
Scott Morris · · Bountiful, Utah · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 475

For your purposes I'd consider Ogden Canyon especially if you live close. It likely won't be crowded like Dogwood or the Slips in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Check out 5.8 wall or Hole in the Rock. You can easily access the tops of both walls.

BrokenChairs BrettC · · Sultan, WA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 245

As has been said there are not many options for TR in LCC. However here is the small selection I have found while looking for places to TR Solo.

mountainproject.com/v/bonge… (Not a great climb for beginners)

mountainproject.com/v/lisa-…

BCC, Mount Olympus, Parley's

As mentioned; Dogwood, The Slips,

but also: Beachball Crag and Powder Ridge Wall offer easy TR access there's also this: mountainproject.com/v/main-… not sure if you can simply TR it but the routes are super easy to lead.

I think your best options for TRing with noobs will be found in the Mount Olympus Areas Sport Utility Wall, or Petes Rock. There's also Iron Curtain Wall in Parley's. I think you can TR here: mountainproject.com/v/the-r… though I haven't visited the crag myself but I heard second hand you can.

You can also TR the Church Fork Wall in Mill Creek though you may want to bring some 8mm static to rap from the top bolts to the chains of the routes. The WatchTower in Ferguson also has some great TR options just stay off of Extreme Unction or you'll make people mad. I would recommend the Mt. Olympus areas the most so you're not tying up high traffic routes.

Ken H · · Granite, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 3,950

How many times has LCC been suggested as a poor choice? Many areas are known for rock fall, others have stiff grades, 99% or so must be led, few can you even drop a rope on from another anchor, plus the rattle snakes and ticks.

Only decent spot for a group of beginners is high in Albion Basin so if you're going in 2 months:
mountainproject.com/v/stink…
It would be a half hiking half climbing outing. Pretty epic spot for a group of beginners just don't get sucked into stopping at Creekside enroute to Stinky Stash because it will be tempting. Others will show up and be annoyed if you gang rope Creekside for hours.

I'd recommend in addition to those others have suggested you consider Red Rock in Draper. Short approach, shade in morning, sun in afternoon, benches, dogs, climbs are super easy to moderate.
mountainproject.com/v/red-r…

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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