Recommended rack near Syracuse?

Original Post
KyleMFSpurgeon · · Syracuse, NY · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 25

Hey all,

I'll be new to the area in August and am looking for crags around Syracuse.
I know the Addies are close, and southern mountain and little falls. Its all a little bit of a drive but not bad.

While looking at these, for most routes the pro just says standard rack, and having climbed enough to realize that that isn't always the same thing, I was curious as to if someone could give me a bit of advice on how to stock my rack for the Addies and maybe Gunks?

Thanks all!

seymorealpine · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 75

.3-3 BD or equivalent w/set of nuts. that will tackle most routes. tricams are nice for gunks but not necessary. i know of no other crags. have fun

Medic741 · · Red Hook, New York · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 265

Found a .3/.4 x4 offset very useful for a number of tricky to protect gunks cruxes. Pink, red, brown tricams is the standard addition if you're headed to the GUNKS. Grew up in Rochester so I commiserate that this part of the state sucks for a climber. Sorry abou that!

Tyler Smith · · NH · Joined May 2012 · Points: 110

Be sure to check out the Southern ADK crags. Closest quality climbing to CNY folks. Little Falls will get old quick. Lost T, Statebrook, Otter Lake Cliffs. Nine corners for quality bouldering.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,755

Addies? ADDIES??


Alex Mitchell · · Cincinnati, OH · Joined May 2012 · Points: 2,348
Gunkiemike wrote:Addies? ADDIES?? Puhleeze.

I lived in Utica for about a year which is about an hour East of Syracuse. Awful area... some of the most boring days of my life. To make up for it I drove 3 hours every weekend to the Gunks or ADKs. Usually by myself to meet people from Albany or other points to the East as no one from CNY seems to climb.

Little Falls is pretty bad. I would go after work and treat it more like a gym.

Eagle Falls is pretty cool and it is closer to the West side of the park but still like 2 hours from Syracuse. Little T and some other southern crags are good also.

Rack wise the standard rack is good. I seemed to place a lot of stuff in the fingers sizes.

Good luck. Its a hard place to live being a climber. Glad I left.
crackatoa Spiesbach · · Boulder,Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 70

Step one.. seriously never call them the addies ever again.. you sound like a 13 year old girl talking about her boy band crush... if you want to abbreviate.. go ahead and just say ADK's...

Second.. .5-3 c4's set of c3's down to 0 or 00 nuts.. good to go and get at lies 6-8 alpine draws.

JCM · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 100
crakatoa wrote:if you want to abbreviate.. go ahead and just say ADK's...
"Dacks" is also a common and acceptable abbreviation.

And for equipment, I recommend a fast car.
Ancent · · Reno, NV · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 42

Don't hate on little falls. It's a great little spot for lazy days when you don't want to spend six+ hours driving.

For example, I used to love running laps on devil won't care:

Plus the setting is interesting to say the least. If you do more then climb, central New York isn't a bad place to live.

Nathan Stokes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 440

The upsides is (when the winter doesn't suck like last year) there is some pretty high class ice at Salmon River Falls. To survive in CNY you need to embrace winter and pick up winter sports like Ice Climbing, XC skiing, that can be done close to home. Otherwise, cabin fever grows fast because there are very few sunshine days from November thru March. Apline skiing in CNY is pretty running laps on tiny local hills of town (3 min down, 10 min waiting for the lift). Head 45 min north to the Tug Hill plateau and the XC ski options are pretty much limitless, both single track and groomed skate skiing on state land or private ski areas.

sara pax · · western mass · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 208
Gunkiemike wrote:Addies? ADDIES?? Puhleeze.
I was hoping someone would say something about this! It was getting under my skin, like a humongous chigger.
Kevin Heckeler · · Upstate New York · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,411

I very rarely head towards Central NY, for anything/any reason. If that gives you some idea of what you're facing. I lived in Utica for 2 years, not by choice (high school age). It's a very economically depressed area, industry up and left decades ago.

Like previously mentioned, the only climbing (outside of Little Falls) is 2+ hours away. Little Falls has its use, but during hot sunny days it's not even an option. The black rock just bakes.

You will find some people from CNY who climb. You can hopefully car pool which will help a bit on gas and miles on the vehicle.

In Syracuse you have recreation options on Lake Ontario, if that's your sort of thing. Lots of birding and other wildlife refuge nearby. Just nothing 'destination' worthy for most people, at least nothing that can't be found comparable elsewhere within a shorter drive. Wine tasting tour maybe? *shrug*

Nolan Huther · · Clarkson University · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 602

Sent you a PM. Little Falls has a nice climbing community, very friendly from what I've seen so far. There's a good deal of climbing to keep you busy for a while, but it's no destination. Luckily I can escape to college for much of the year... Anyway, work on your camping skills, makes weekends in the ADK that much more enjoyable! Campsites in Chapel Pond Pass will be close to a high concentration of quality rock, for example.

Also, I'm from near Utica, there's a good group of climbers in the general vicinity- join the Little Falls climbers Facebook group of you're looking for information or partners

Chris Re · · Boise, ID · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 15

Fishing rod

Jim Lawyer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 3,194
n00b · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 40

I spent a few summers working in the high peaks in the 90's, and even "Dacks" marked you as an outsider.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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