Sport Route basically a Boulder Problem

Original Post
BrokenChairs BrettC · · Sultan, WA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 245

What is it with people saying this 11d sport route is basically a boulder problem with bolts? To me a boulder problem(BP) is a BP and a sport route(SR) is well... a SR. Yes both involve climbing techniques but what makes this sport problem a so called BP with bolts? Can't bouldering be bouldering and sport climbing be sport climbing? That description mean nothing to me but maybe I'm missing something. What makes it a bouldery start or a bouldery climb what is the difference aren't they both about the physical performance of the route. The difference being the type of protection and the scale. But what is it that makes people say this SR is basically a BP?

Let the fun begin, hopefully this will get me through another hour at work.

ScoJo · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 120

Usually it means there is one powerful/difficult section and the rest of the route is relatively trivial in comparison.

In contrast you could have a pumpy endurofest characterized by a difficulty that's more sustained throughout the route.

Mike Lane · · Centennial, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 905

My home area has about the same amount of bouldering as sport routes. Most of the sport routes are typical ladder climbing with a hard part. But several of the routes have sections where you have to boulder through a section using really tricky and powerful sequences and tons of beta is involved.
Stuff like back stepping onto cobble, under cling inverted pocket with left middle finger while flagging your right foot to pinch a slopy cobble and throw for a tiny edge.

Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 90

When I look at some of the boulders at the Buttermilks I think, Damn that's a sport route (Or top rope)! I will probably get on them eventually, once I pull my nuts out of my stomach.

jellybean · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

I prefer SR's that are BP's over BP's that should be SR's, but that's just me. Is this route unusually short or does it have fairly easy climbing with a short difficult section. I've used this terminology on a climb that was 60' 5.8 with a 15' V5 and back to 5.8. The boulder problem in the middle was worth a couple of tries but the rest of the climb wasn't worth working.

jellybean · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Or the lack of decent clipping stances requires the bypass of a bolt. I can think of three climbs that have unnecessary bolts, intended by the bolters, to be used as working bolts and to clip them would add more difficulty to the climb than would be gained with fall protection. Bouldery routes imo have sections that are not consistent with the difficulty of the majority of the route.

Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 83

When I here people say it is bouldery of has a section of V5 or something like that I assume it is more power climbing. You will here pros talk about really hard sport like that a lot too. If it is just a 5.11a I am thinking it is more slab, balance technique versus power.

Mike Morin · · North Conway, NH · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,255

I've found it to mean it's a short route.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

one move wonder. a bouldery move on a route means an single move that is much harder than the rest of the climb. Sometimers a climb may have several single hard moves with easy climbing in between them. Thast description may read continue up the arrette with several bouldery moves. = casual climbing up the arette with several short hard moves.

Mike Morin · · North Conway, NH · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,255

A route described as having a bouldery move isn't the same as a route described as a bolted boulder problem, imo.


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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