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Ultralight Master Cam


Original Post
Owen Witesman · · Springville, UT · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 113

Anyone with experience with the Metolius ultralight master cam out there who could give me a quick thumbs up or down on them? I've been using C4s and X4s exclusively for a couple of years, so the smaller range of the MUMCs is a turnoff, but otherwise they seem pretty sweet for the price and weight. And beyond the general "should I bother" is there a particular number range where they excel in a rack mixed with BD? It seems like some people like the 00-4 MC matched with 0.5-4 C4. Thanks.

ChrisN · · Morro Bay, CA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25

I have the orange... I picked it up as a double, it kind of fits between my 0.5 and 0.4 BD cams.

I like it, I seem to find a placement for it on most climbs.

Systematic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 321

I like them. They are very well made and I like the changes. I think they do shine in the smaller sizes you mentioned. If you're expecting lots of horizontal placements there are more suitable options.

Arin Earl · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 85

Love them. No problems with them so far. I have a set of BD cams to include x4 and would rather rack the Metolius. Although, I have to say, it's tough, if not impossible, for me to not rack my totems with my metolius.

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 20

I have sizes 5-7 and they are awesome. The old 7's were a little floppy, but they are great now with a thicker/stiffer cable and nice and light weight. I just noticed that Backcountry.com has them on sale for $51. I might go buy the #8.

Don Ferris · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 175

I'll be the outlier and and say that I don't prefer them over x4s. It's a little finicky to get the thumb oriented right with the floppy webbing. I feel like I can tell a difference in the lack of range as well. Other than that they are well made just not my favorite.

Eric K · · Washington · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 45

Not trying to hijack the thread but...

I have a full set of the original master cams, 00-6. I am now wanting to double up on my rack in the size range of about 00-4. If this was your rack would you add the new UMCs, TCUs, or X4s?

I like the idea of sticking with metolius so I don't get confused with different colors for the same sizes, but having a mixed up rack may have its benefits.

John Gassel · · Boston, MA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 573

Big thumbs up from me

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,745
Eric K wrote:Not trying to hijack the thread but... I have a full set of the original master cams, 00-6. I am now wanting to double up on my rack in the size range of about 00-4. If this was your rack would you add the new UMCs, TCUs, or X4s? I like the idea of sticking with metolius so I don't get confused with different colors for the same sizes, but having a mixed up rack may have its benefits.
While I appreciate your desire to stay with e the Met's, having a different brand has its advantages: sometimes another style/brand of cam give a different - and JUST a little better - fit when things get testy. Personally I like the Aliens to fit between the Mets.
WhiskeyDan · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 65

I am pretty new to this, and trying to piece together a rack as well. I was told that the Metolius Ultralight Master Cams complement a set of C4's perfectly because of the different lobe sizing. For example, if you go to place a #0.4 C4 and it is tipped out and you reach for a #0.5 C4 and it is overcammed. You can then use a #3 UL mastercam because it is between the #0.4 and #0.5 C4.

walmongr · · Gilbert AZ · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 85

Have a full set they are bitchin! Carry those and a set of BD ultralights all racked with camp nanos, then mix and match C3's and some nuts depending on route. Makes a pretty damn light rack!

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

Are they good in soft rock? Is there anybody to compare Ultralight Master Cams versus Ultralight Fat Cams in soft rock?

Alexander K · · The road · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 130

After pages of discussion. Mt Project decides that totems are the best small cams.

mountainproject.com/v/the-e…

mountainproject.com/v/totem…

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Yep. That they are.

Joe Crawford · · June Lake, California · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

As others have said, metolius cams seem to fit nicely in between BD sizes. I usually carry one set of each between .3-1/yellow-green (double MC for smaller and C4 for bigger) and that seems to let me get more bomber placements that just carrying doubles of either MC or C4. I want a set of the new UL MCs real bad, but can't decided whether I'd rather a set of those or the new UL C4s.

T340 · · Idaho · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 5

I bought a few a while back when they were on sale. Not had a chance to try them out yet. That being said, they look to be very well-made and they are light, for sure!

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 20

Most of the routes around here make sense to carry a double set of cams in hand/finger range. I find it very useful to have a set of Camalots and a set of Mastercams. I don't find that they fit in between each other, but are pretty close to each other in size, but they have enough difference that having one of each to choose from is helpful when something isn't fitting quite right. I follow the example of a friend of mine and rack the Master Cams on biners that are color coded to the corresponding Camalot, which makes it easier to quickly find what I need.

As for totem cams, they are awesome, but expensive and not needed for most placements. I have found them imperative on some tricky aid routes on desert towers, but that's the only place that I found them to be overall better than C4s or Master Cams.

Jon Rhoderick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 850

They are great, takes some getting used to using a small cam with no solid thumb loop tho, I think I bite the webbing to get my thumb in

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

JIC, is there anybody having an experience of placing those cams in soft rock? And testing those placements (e.g., falling on them)? Do they really hold in soft rock?

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 20
Pavel Burov wrote:JIC, is there anybody having an experience of placing those cams in soft rock? And testing those placements (e.g., falling on them)? Do they really hold in soft rock?
I haven't taken any lead falls on them on soft rock, but I've placed them a lot on aid climbing on the softest rock known to climbingdom, The Fisher Towers, and they hold fine under big bounce tests.
Jack Servedio · · Raleigh,NC · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 30

I personally like them less than the older Master Cams (I use them for small cams) because there is less to grab on to, but I still think they are great. Maybe I just need to get used to them, though.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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