East Buttress Middle Cathedral Advice

Original Post
moreannefrank · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

Spending a week in the valley with 2 partners with the intention of doing EBMC. Two of us confidently lead mid 5.10 at home in the gunks (so are jamming skills are limited). What climbs should we tick off first to give us an idea if we can do this without turning it into an epic?

Right now we plan on gauging ourselves based on time and success on the Nutcracker and Royal Arches.

Any advice or beta is gladly welcomed. Thanks in advance!

Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 255

The climbing on the 50 crowded version is very user friendly and easy for the grade which is why it's really popular. Not much mandatory jamming as you could lie back much of the corners and most of the jamming is on finger cracks, just stick your fingers in and twist.
The crux of this route is the crowds, get an alpine start and be prepared for a plan B. Finding and following the walk off can be tricky for some if your not familiar with Yosemite decents and not good with route finding.

grant kendrick · · northampton, ma · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 100

Climbed this a year ago on my first visit to Yosemite and had great day. We got a reasonably early start, but not crack of dawn, and had the route to ourselves. I don't think you'll have any problem if you climb 5.10 at the Gunks.

There is now a bolted rap line, so you can avoid the walk off, which was a definite plus for me. You don't do the final short pitch, but instead head to the left to an anchor, and from there it's 10 or 11 raps to the ground, ending just above the start of the climb. A 60 meter rope is all you need.

Have a great time!

Ryan K. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 95

You should do east buttress of MC as your warm up then do the NEB as your main event.

Keatan · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 20

Climbed this about four years ago. We didn't find the walk off to be too bad and did it in our climbing shoes. If you're looking to pass another party, I would not suggest the original chimneys...they will most likely slow you down.

Rob Dillon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 710

Like most route on Middle, the East Butt isn't very 'jammy'. You don't need to be a crack master to have fun on that one.

Todd Ulz · · oakland · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 5

did this two weeks ago just after the rain. climbing was mostly fun but not as classic as the reputation I feel.
started late, stuck behind a slow party, topped out at sunset. couldn't find the walk off or new rap route, did about 10 scrambly rappels down a slippery gully off sketchier and sketchier logs and slung blocks. so yea don't go that way!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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