need partner for to climb otto's route at Independence monument


Original Post
Dan Jones 2 · May 9, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0
Looking for someone who has climbed the route before and who can help a beginning trad. climber learn a bit more. available any day until May 24th.

Chad Miller · May 10, 2016 · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0
I've lead it and in my opinion it's NOT a good route for a beginner. Personally I found the route to be a sandy choss pile. I've lead it and won't do it again. Don't get me wrong it's s fun, unique route but not a good lead.

Then again I'm just some fat, non Colorado native so what do I know.

garrettem · May 10, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 570
I disagree with Chad. Otto's route is as good as it gets for a multi pitch trad route beginner in western colorado. Don't expect Red Rocks and don't expect it to be a gimme. The whole route has good belay stances with chain anchors and each pitch is readily protectable with good stances to place gear. Have fun and go for it. You can bail from any pitch if it doesn't look good. In addition to the normal gear make sure to bring some bigger cams for the second pitch which will probably be the most uncomfortable (minimum of 1 #3 and #4) and bring 1-2 blue tricams with that you'll be able to get gear pretty much wherever and whenever and the upper half of the route is bolted.

Chad Miller · May 10, 2016 · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0
All of that is true but the wingate sandstone rather soft and I wouldn't trust those blue tricams to hold in a decent fall.

It's just my humble opinion but I like the granite areas of Unaweep much better.

grog m aka Greg McKee · May 10, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0
I disagree with Chad as well. Its a good enough route to learn on. You wont fall from climbing, you would only fall if you were being an idiot. If you can climb V2 you can do this route because of the drilled pockets.

Like I always comment for this route, if youre feeling scared or its getting strangely difficult, look around and you will see a perfect pocket to use as a foot or hand.

Chad Miller · May 10, 2016 · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0
I guess it depends on what a beginner read climber is. I was thinking that it meant in the 5.8 range with little knowledge on placing gear. If you're a solid .9 or .10 leader this climb will be a chossy cake walk where you'd only fall if something breakes off mid move

Then again the locals do say that every time someone climbs this route it gets a little bit harder

Dan Jones 2 · May 11, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0
thanks for the tips, now is there anyone who can climb it with me?

Chad Miller · May 11, 2016 · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0
How much trad experience do you have?

Dan Jones 2 · May 12, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0
i've done a handful of trad leads up to 5.8. I've never had to build a natural anchor but have studied it quite a bit. I have a basic rack up to #4 cam. looking to learn more about how to gage rock quality when placing gear. shoot me an email if you might want to climb, dtmj77@yahoo.com

Chris Schmidt · May 12, 2016 · Grand Junction · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0
Ottos is about as close to a sport route as a trad route can get. In addition to the chipped pockets there are probably 10-15 bolts? All of the anchors are bolted as well.

You could easily lead the trad pitches with the experience you have. The first pitch is 5.6 maybe? And then the next has a single 5.8 move that is protected by a 4. If it weren't a 2.5 mile hike each way I would jump all over climbing it again.

Dan Jones 2 · May 12, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0
understandable, thank for the tips anyway.

Chad Miller · May 12, 2016 · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0
I'll climb it with you Dan. I'm a fatty though.

Dan Jones 2 · May 13, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0
sweet, i'm available any day but tomorrow, let me know what works.

Chad Miller · May 13, 2016 · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0
I'm busy Sunday, and not free until Friday till 11am.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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