Any Climbers Interested in Cholatse and Ana Dablam Autumn 2016

Original Post
Don Morris · · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 1,228

I plan to be in Nepal October 15th - November 12th, 2016. I am interested in having a partner to climb Cholatse and Ana Dablam with an equally experienced mountaineer. If interested we can discuss logistics, and the best plan for the climbs.

Carole Fuchs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Hi Don,

My name is Carole, I am planning to climb Ama Dablam for this autumn(the schedule is not fixed yet but I was thinking end of September trying to avoid crowds). I have hired a Sherpa friend (Everest summiter)to assist. Do you have any progress with the permit or logistics?

Don Morris · · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 1,228

Hi Carole,

I have tickets to arrive in Kathmandu October 15th. Since, I attempted Ama Dablam in the autumn of 2013, I am pretty comfortable with the logistics. I would join the American Alpine Club to take advantage of $15 a night lodging in Kathmandu. Permits should not be a problem, but it is better to share the cost for that. A permit is usually for seven or so people. There are no individual permits I am aware of.

The reason for not making the summit is due to an 'unusual storm' that dumped snow, all faceted, at the higher elevations. No team made it to the top that autumn, until late in the year. I made it to camp two, and felt great. Enjoyed the climbing on that mountain.

My objectives are Cholatse and Ama Dablam. Living in Denver, and climbing fourteeners before the trip I think gives me an advantage for acclimatization, and I do not need to wait as long as those coming from sea level. And after climbing one mountain the acclimatization for another is already done.

If you plan to just climb Ama Dablam we could try to coordinate to climb Ama Dablam as a team. I have no preference in what order the mountains are climbed.

If you want to consider partnering we should talk.

Endo TheTimber · · Vancouver, B.C. · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0

Ama Dablam is on my TDL. Not particularly interested in cholatse since it appears somewhat harder. How much do you think logistics are going to cost?

P.S. Where is this $15 accommodation in KTM? Name?

Carole Fuchs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Hi Don,

Thank you for sharing your experience and sorry for my late reply (I was trying to match my schedule with yours). I will have to arrive in Kathmandu on September 16th and back on October 16th (I have work obligations in November).

I have heard that we can get a permit for one climber now but with a "compulsory" local "guide". It is rather confusing. I have to insure that guide as well and it will costs 1800USD for that permit. Did you also hire the local intermediary? How much was your license?

I will be able to inform you if you are interested from Kathmandu.

Thank you!


ChapelPondGirl · · Keene, NY · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 20

Can I ask what route you are looking at? The North Ridge looks pretty awesome, as does the south face that was soloed by Jeff Lowe. Although I think it is in poor condition frequently

Don Morris · · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 1,228

The $25 lodge is outside of Kathmandu. You can learn more at the American Alpine Club - All Lodging Discounts.

I decided not to climb Ama Dablam again. There are so many people climbing it that it is more of an e-ticket than a climbing objective. I am starting to post my Cholatse climb here - Southwest Ridge

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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