Peak 11,300 beta


Original Post
LawHous · May 8, 2016 · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 100
Hey all,

I'm looking for beta on peak 11,300 in the AK range. My buddy and I are planning to climb it in early June. I'm looking for any beta on route conditions specifically. What are the concerns of climbing it in early June? Will there be enough snow? Does it need much snow to go? Anything helps, thanks.

clint helander · May 8, 2016 · anchorage, alaska · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 438

clint helander · May 8, 2016 · anchorage, alaska · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 438
plenty of snow. june should be fine.

LawHous · May 8, 2016 · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 100
Really? I thought AK has had kind of a rough year for snow...

CCChanceR Ronemus · May 8, 2016 · Bozeman, MT · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0
The last month or so has been pretty banner, bringing the range up to near normal levels. Most ice routes are long gone by June, but 11300 has been known to go that late. I think the FA was in June?

Mark Hammond · May 8, 2016 · Eldorado Springs, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 190
FA was actually July but almost all MP ticks are in May. We did it in May and the last 750' face was alpine ice. My buddies did it a few years later, also in May and they wallowed up waist deep snow where we swung tools. C'est la vie.
Super fun route.
Assuming you don't do it in a day, the grey rock bivy is far superior to the col bivy, which can be quite windy.

Marlin Thorman · May 16, 2016 · Spokane, WA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 355
I assume you are referring to the Southwest Ridge and my response is based on that assumption. Just got back from an Alaska trip and climbed the SW Ridge on Peak 11300 on Saturday (5/14). It is currently in excellent condition. I think it should still be pretty good in June, the biggest concern would be temps. Plenty of snow still and a little less shouldn't hurt anything. Just pick a cold spell and climb at night when it is colder (it will be light anyway). It is a fantastic route btw, and definitely worth doing. Let me know if you have any more specific questions.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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