climb right next to selaginella (five open books)

Original Post
Gabe Torres · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

Was up near Selaginella without a topo and never having climbed it before got on what I thought was the "right variation". If you don't move left into the corner the disjointed cracks keep going for about 170ft I think until you get to a featured face where there's a belay with rap rings on it.

It looks like a second pitch continues up left and I saw at least 2 bolts, but once I got to this point the climbing felt harder than 5.8 (maybe 5.9/5.10-) and decided to bail once we realized we were on the wrong route. Two ropes will get you down but I had to sling a boulder half way down to do two raps.

Anyone know what climb this is? Supertopo has the first 30-40 ft at 5.7 hands which I would agree with before you're supposed to move left into the corner to go up selaginella. I'm curious because the rap bolts were super shiny and it looks like a new route. I actually enjoyed the climbing on it and would like to go finish it as I assume its likely a two pitch variation start to selaginella.

Clint Cummins · · Palo Alto, CA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 725

Yes, it's a new route I did in February 2015 with my partner Bob.
p1 is 5.10b and about 175', but you can also split it up by making a gear belay about 120' up.
p2 goes diagonal left past some bolts, up some cracks, then back right to a grassy ledge above the p1 anchor.
p3 you can go diagonal left again past a couple of bolts and join Selaginella at the point where it traverses left. Or you can head up and right in a shallow chimney, then overhanging 5.11b hand crack. Unfortunately there is a very bad loose block up high on this pitch. Final pitch goes past a dead manzanita then a scary loose flake to the top.
Another p3 option is to traverse far right on the grassy ledge and then up a slab with about 5 bolts. From here you can rap back, or continue on a hideously dirty and loose aid pitch to the top.
The chains are very shiny because Bob likes to use 316 stainless chain links.

There will be a topo which includes these pitches in the updated Reid guidebook (project headed by Eric Gabel, not to be confused with the Erik Sloan book).

I'll try to edit this post tonight, as I can't recall the name of the climb at the moment.

Gabe Torres · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

thanks for the info clint! I'll have to go back and do it again and finish on selaginella.

looking forward to the new guidebook

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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