Partner for Cathedral Peak this weekend


Original Post
Max McKee · · Monterey, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 35

I'm going to be in the area this weekend and want to go climb Cathedral Peak, and maybe the Eichorn Pinnacle, depending on time. Which route taken depends on if I have a partner or not. I've got more than enough gear for any route, and an extra harness and personal gear if needed. We'll start early, climb light and fast and enjoy the view. If you are in the area or just want to go climb a classic, let me know.

csproul · · Davis, CA · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Is the road up there open yet?

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,160
csproul wrote:Is the road up there open yet?
NPS link says no.
Max McKee · · Monterey, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 35

Damn, I must have mistaken the road plowing for it being open. I'll probably just go check out south lake tahoe or lover's leap. Maybe conditions will be better than they were in february, it was still fun though.

Max McKee · · Monterey, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 35

Are there any other apline style climbs around that are accessible, for a day trip? In the northern yosemite or south lake tahoe area?

csproul · · Davis, CA · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

If you're up for a long day, you could probably still get up to North dome from the Valley floor. Climb Royal arches and then North Dome and then return to the Valley. RA will probably be wet, but I imagine that the sunny side of North Dome is pretty clear of snow.

nkane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 90

It's still a touch early for high country adventures, at least without skis. See: yosemiteconservancy.org/web...

Greg Carlisle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 5

Alpineish in south lake would be anything in emerald bay/ eagle creek canyon...try section 20 or eagle lake buttress...and if you want real alpine feel the maggiewand (Maggie's west face) is a good one....lots of beta on those with a quick supertopo forum search....if your feeling it try the emerald trilogy, all three features in a day...goodtimes..ill be at the leap this weekend but there's no
Camping yet...

SirTobyThe3rd · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,920

The weather for this week is not great for high objectives all around the state. 20% chance of thinderstorms for the Yosemite Valley, which is lower in elevation than all the alpiney stuff you may consider.
Accessible climbs vary based on the amount you would want to drive and the amount you would want to drive/hike AND how hard do you want to climb...
In general, based on your post, I'd say wait till the end of May (or somewhere around that time) till the pass opens, than you can do Cathedral :)

You can do Arrowhead Arete (5.8) with the spire link up, which is a longer moderate which feels like an alpiny route in the Valley. Also NORTH Buttress of Middle Cathedral, feels alpiny as in long, a bit chossy but fun. I'd call it an honest 10b/c w/o the sandbag.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arrowhead-arete/106103489

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/north-buttress/105915955

nkane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 90
nkane wrote:It's still a touch early for high country adventures, at least without skis. See: yosemiteconservancy.org/web...
Not that you shouldn't try! But bring dry socks.
Max McKee · · Monterey, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 35
SirTobyThe3rd wrote:The weather for this week is not great for high objectives all around the state. 20% chance of thinderstorms for the Yosemite Valley, which is lower in elevation than all the alpiney stuff you may consider. Accessible climbs vary based on the amount you would want to drive and the amount you would want to drive/hike AND how hard do you want to climb... In general, based on your post, I'd say wait till the end of May (or somewhere around that time) till the pass opens, than you can do Cathedral :) You can do Arrowhead Arete (5.8) with the spire link up, which is a longer moderate which feels like an alpiny route in the Valley. Also NORTH Buttress of Middle Cathedral, feels alpiny as in long, a bit chossy but fun. I'd call it an honest 10b/c w/o the sandbag. mountainproject.com/v/arrow... mountainproject.com/v/north...
I was just in the valley a couple weeks back, partying on the column, so I sorta want to get out of the valley and into the higher peaks. I guess what I meant when I said alpine style, I meant more alpine mountaineering than alpine rock climbing. I don't really feel like doing any long rope solos, and I don't have the mindset for a free solo, so any mountaineering routes, requiring the spiky things would be cool. Know of any?
Max McKee · · Monterey, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 35
nkane wrote: Not that you shouldn't try! But bring dry socks.
I was out in February, and skis would have been nice. It was waist to chest deep powder over a smooth granite slab. I was basically swimming in the shit, punching in my arm and ice axe, sliding down with every step, snow blowing in my face. It was fucking cool!
Max McKee · · Monterey, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 35
Greg Carlisle wrote:Alpineish in south lake would be anything in emerald bay/ eagle creek canyon...try section 20 or eagle lake buttress...and if you want real alpine feel the maggiewand (Maggie's west face) is a good one....lots of beta on those with a quick supertopo forum search....if your feeling it try the emerald trilogy, all three features in a day...goodtimes..ill be at the leap this weekend but there's no Camping yet...
Thanks! I'm probably going to go to the leap as well, but I'm interested in the maggiewand, I'll have to check it out. What are you climbing at the leap?
Max McKee · · Monterey, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 35

South Maggie's East Face couloirs looks like fun!

Greg Carlisle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 5

Will be climbing girlfriend routes....should be good up there. Those chutes on Maggie's are better with a snowboard...but could be fun if it freezes..

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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