Pre-order the new Yosemite Guidebook!


Original Post
Erik Sloan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

Yo Gang!

Huge, huge thanks to everyone who contributed to this awesome new guide. Please order today!:

rockclimbyosemite.com

Woot!
Erik Sloan
Yosemitebigwall.com/RockClimbYosemite.com, owner

Shelton Hatfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 140

Damn, downgrade city! The book looks great though. Nice work Erik

Billcoe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 570

Erik, are you going to have an online version (E-Book) available for download?

Moof · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0

Does it come with instructions for added your very own mid-pitch anchors to classic climbs? Limbing trees in a national park for fun and profit?

Seriously, think twice about rewarding an admitted retrobolter.

Erik Sloan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

Hi Guys!

Thanks for preordering. This has been a massive community effort and I'm so stoked to finally see it coming to print.

Billcoe - This time if you buy the book you get a free app version, made by the climbing app pros at Vertical Life. So updating the book should be easier than ever - and you will have access to all the latest routes, via the app. VL thinks they will have the app finished by early May!

Woot!
Erik
RockClimbYosmite.com

Sam Keller · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0
Moof wrote:Does it come with instructions for added your very own mid-pitch anchors to classic climbs? Limbing trees in a national park for fun and profit? Seriously, think twice about rewarding an admitted retrobolter.
Give it a break. Erik Sloan has done so much for the climbing community. What have you done? I can't stand people hating on someone who is actually OUT THERE doing something to develop the sport we love.

Guide books are incredibly important and take a huge amount of effort in order to come to fruition.
Moof · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0
Sam Keller wrote: Give it a break. Erik Sloan has done so much for the climbing community. What have you done? I can't stand people hating on someone who is actually OUT THERE doing something to develop the sport we love. Guide books are incredibly important and take a huge amount of effort in order to come to fruition.
His response to people asking about new bolts added to the middle of a pitch:

"I added that belay. It's for practice aid climbing. If you remove the bolts, I will add them back. "

I have refrained from adding mid pitch anchors on well established climbs. That is what I have done for the community.
vincent L. · · Redwood City · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 305

Sam, we can live in a world where we recognize , even commend an individual for the good they do , and still call them out when they make stupid choices in regards to a resource that we all share . You don't need to have done an equal amount of good things as the individual, to have license to call them out on the dumb things they do .

Eric is a very divisive figure in Yosemite climbing , and it's pretty optimistic to think that people won't continue to speak out on his past , and very recent , actions in Yosemite ...

Erik Sloan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

Yo Gang!

Thank you so much for your support. This book is a massive community effort - look at how many names are on the front cover (I would have covered the whole front cover with all the names of the contributors, but the designer wouldn't go for it, haha). Folks here in Yosemite are really, really psyched to have a new guidebook resource. The printing costs of this book are substantial, $30k, so please spread the word about this discount opportunity!

Moof and Vincent: Yes climbing ethics are difficult and can suck you into a continual conversation in which you might, or might not, agree with other climbers. For example, a lot of people in the aid climbing community are upset that Tommy Caldwell added bolts mid-pitch to a couple routes on his Dawn Wall route. I don't care at all, and am stoked for Tommy and Kevin and what they accomplished up there. So I would say we are a divided bunch much more than anyone is a divisive figure.

Woot!
Erik
RockClimbYosemite.com

Schuyler Collett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0

Pre-ordered! Can't wait~

Thanks again for all of your hard work Erik

Moof · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0
Erik Sloan wrote:Moof and Vincent: Yes climbing ethics are difficult and can suck you into a continual conversation in which you might, or might not, agree with other climbers.
Adding bolts for a free attempt are in the gray area. Adding mid-pitch aid practice bolts are indefensible. Aggressive removal of tree limbs in a national park without authorization is illegal. What you did to the Great Slab Route with a bolt ladder around 2 whole pitches is ugly and indefensible (and you left tat at the bottom anchor). The aggressive crow bar cleaning of the Pitch 7 mid-way ledge on Mideast Crisis was well beyond what was needed or justified.
Arthur · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 103

Got my order in, always need more books for the shelf and the stoke.

Erik Sloan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

Thanks Gang!

Please keep spreading the word about the preorder discount!

Woot Woot!
Erik

Erik Sloan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

Bump!

Erik Sloan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

Thanks to everyone who has preordered!

We're trying to presell a 1,000 of these, so please help us spread the word.

Woot Woot!
Erik Sloan

New Yosemite Free Climbing Book!

Andy Novak · · Golden, Co · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 5

"Adding mid-pitch aid practice bolts are indefensible. Aggressive removal of tree limbs in a national park without authorization is illegal. What you did to the Great Slab Route with a bolt ladder around 2 whole pitches is ugly and indefensible (and you left tat at the bottom anchor). The aggressive crow bar cleaning of the Pitch 7 mid-way ledge on Mideast Crisis was well beyond what was needed or justified."

Thought I'd quote this again to break up your pride-less self-promotion Sloan.

Woot Woot!

Erik Sloan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

Hi Novak!

Thanks for the bump.....There are two sides to every story, for sure, but this thread is thankfully about an amazing guidebook that the community has been super stoked to help put together. Now we are just asking people to help with the upfront printing costs by preordering the book.

Woot!
Erik

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 136

a free climbing guidebook from someone who doesn't do much free climbing and threatens bolt wars, not to mention threatening climbers' access to Yosemite by breaking rules of the park... yeah that's definitely something I'd want to spend my hard earned money on.

Erik Sloan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

Yo Gang,

Remember there are always two sides to every story. There are some blatantly false statements being made here, but let's just focus on the op-ed: An awesome new Yosemite Guidebook put together by dozens of motivated locals, who are now just trying to raise the upfront printing costs by preselling the book.

Go For It!
Woot!
Erik

Creed A · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 680

Erik,

I don't know if you are guilty of retro bolting, but you are definitely guilty of overusing the word(?) "woot." I am interested in your book, but will I find excessive "wooting" in its pages? ;)

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

There are some blatantly false statements being made here,...

Which ones are "blatantly false"?
Retrobolting?
Bolt wars?
Limbing trees?
Something else?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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