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Which Shoe to Buy!?


Original Post
Kate V · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

So, I know these topics get beaten to death on here, but I can't help myself.

I started climbing in August of last year and have been wearing La Sportiva Oxygyms since then. Though I haven't exactly worn them out, I'm a gear-whore and am looking at some upgrade options. I'd love some opinions on which direction to go.

I primarily top-rope at this point, but I would like to focus on bouldering a little more going forward. I'm pretty comfortable with 5.10s and have made progress on 5.11s lately.

What would you guys think would be some good options for upgrading my shoes? I'm currently looking at La Sportiva Katanas or Miuras (these get a bonus because REI carries them).

Thanks in advance!

Barrett Pauer · · Brevard, NC · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 775

Try on some Anisasi Velcros. If they fit your foot well they would be a great option. Bomber shoe.

Jenna Steff · · London · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 5

I just upgraded from a beginner shoe to the miura. I mainly Boulder and have been learning to lead and these shoes are great

Quinn Baker · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

Miura VS's were my second shoe, and they are great shoes, but if your footwork is still sloppy from being a beginner (boy mine was when I got my Miuras lol) the toe will wear down fast.

I'm primarily a boulderer, I mostly wear Evolv Talons in the gym now and they are great for gym climbing. The rubber is hard enough to be durable, but soft enough to be sticky. Only thing I don't like is that they are lace-ups. I would love a velcro version of these.

A. Bandos · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 405

Are we talking gym or outside? And if outside, the style of rock you gravitate makes a big difference. Plus, I know several gym climbers that dance up the yellow 12 in the gym in beat up "beginner" shoes. With big footholds and heroic moves I don't understand why people wear 170$ shoes inside.

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

climbing friend,

it matters not. try on many pair and buy those which are most tight yet comfortable with most excellent fit for YOUR foot, and ignore endless stream of bullshit about the brandings and the models.

Remember that the peoples with the scultped guns and technique most excellent may climb the 5.12 or 5.13 or greater with hiking boots or no shoes.

Also do not buy shoe with "gym" in the name ever again. No!

Andy Nelson · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 341

Tenaya Ra

Barrett Pauer · · Brevard, NC · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 775
Aleks Zebastian wrote:climbing friend, it matters not. try on many pair and buy those which are most tight yet comfortable with most excellent fit for YOUR foot, and ignore endless stream of bullshit about the brandings and the models
+1
Scott Bissi · · Cazenovia, New York · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 5

I have some tenya ra as well and I liked them alot maybe a little too small for me but I just switched to a evolv defy and love them ! Tried on shaman and dint like them

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 210

Go with the Miuras. You'll notice a huge difference over the Oxygyms and everyone carries them, so you can actually try them on and get a good fit. As Aleks said, this is much more important than the idiosyncrasies of different shoe designs at this point in your climbing career.

Mike Brady · · Van Diesel, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 673

The one that fits.
I wish MP would just auto-reply to any questions that are remotely near "What shoe", "what rope". or "what car".

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 491
Andy B wrote:Are we talking gym or outside? And if outside, the style of rock you gravitate makes a big difference. Plus, I know several gym climbers that dance up the yellow 12 in the gym in beat up "beginner" shoes. With big footholds and heroic moves I don't understand why people wear 170$ shoes inside.
I have also seen quite a few of those 12 gym climbers in tarantulaces that pull down really hard, instead of using their feet when they could. Sure you CAN climb the giant footholds in the gym just slapping your foot up there anywhere, but you can also place your feet precisely on certain points of holds, look for a small feature to pretend they are as small as what you'll climb outside.

I tried using nagos for roped routes in the gym and found my footwork outside after wasn't as precise. Switched to pythons, which are much more precise and have great feel (at the cost of some life with 3.5mm rubber). It did make a difference in my climbing outside, much easier to nail those tiny edges.

I do COMPLETELY agree with not buying $170 shoes to climb in the gym though. I got the pythons at $110 on closeout, bought two pairs to go for a while. My outside shoes never see the sandpaper walls of the gym.
Roy Suggett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 7,609

Try on some La Sportiva Mythos.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 210

Guys, shoes can be resoled...

I'm sorry, but I find the whole "I only wear good shoes outdoors" mentality a little ridiculous. Maybe if I was a professional dirtbag and/or lived somewhere with easy outdoor access I'd feel that way, but for those of us who have to drive a ways to get on real rock, it's just not realistic. Plenty of gyms use small holds, and plenty of setters set difficult problems where aggressive shoes will make a difference, particularly boulder problems.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 210

I got some miuras and they didn't last very long, i really like no edge shoes for indoors they last for ever providing you don't take them on razor sharp granite.

Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105

I don't understand the aversion to wearing good shoes indoors. Real rock EATS shoes. Why not wear your expensive shoes in the gym, where they'll last 5-10 times as long?

Anyway if you're on your first pair of shoes you don't yet know what "fits" even means. Just try some until you find something you like. Figure out your size then hunt for them on ebay and here on MP.

Llati Wonki · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 25

There is too one big thing that works well if you climb in the gym with a store with shoes. You can often try the shoes and climb in them.

I know for real that different feet like different shoes. For me, even though evolve is also a very good shoe, my toes hurt very bad in them. Sportive fits my toe very well.

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,269
"these get a bonus because REI carries them"

LOL!
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,800
Locker wrote:"these get a bonus because REI carries them" LOL!
Maybe OP has REI credit to spend. Lots of folks get $ from REI every year.
Quinn Baker · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0
that guy named seb wrote:I got some miuras and they didn't last very long, i really like no edge shoes for indoors they last for ever providing you don't take them on razor sharp granite.
The toe rubber on my Miura VS didn't last very long either, but I'm 99% sure it had to do with my footwork more than it did the shoe.
Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,269
"The toe rubber on my Miura VS didn't last very long either, but I'm 99% sure it had to do with my footwork more than it did the shoe."

That is VERY common on Miuras. When you get them new, it appears that there is a good bit of rubber at the toe. Not so! Right at the tip Miuras have very little rubber. Usually around 1mm, but looks closer to 3mm.

Also, delamination at the toe/tip is extremely common on Miuras. (For the same reason)
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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