Anchor Cordolette: Figure Eight Ends or Continuous Loop


Original Post
Jeffo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 25

For your belay anchors, do you:

Option Alpha: rock the method with figure eights on each end

OR

Option Beta (bet you thought I'd say Bravo): Tie it off with triple fish's and use the continuous loop method?

Poll Style!

J

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 615

Depends on the anchor, but I typically close the loop with a flat overhand. Am I going to die?

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5

I go with the 8's, when I use one. Just clip both 8's to one biner and you have a loop if ya need to

Burcheydawwwwwwg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 375

Yes

Crispy. · · Chicago · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0
Nick Sweeney wrote:. . . I typically close the loop with a flat overhand.
This.
wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 392

Neither. Leave it untied. If I use a cordelette, I tie the ends into the masterpoint knot

Chase D · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

My cordelette has a figure 8 on each end. Works great if you build an anchor with 3 or 4 pieces of pro that are spaced and you need a lot of cord. I used a closed loop for a while but haven't gone back after I switched to the figure 8 on each end.

tim · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 50

No

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 1,865

Closed loop if you clip into the "shelf" above the knot.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 212
wivanoff wrote:Neither. Leave it untied. If I use a cordelette, I tie the ends into the masterpoint knot
This. Pre-tied cordelettes are dumb.
matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10
Jeff0 wrote:For your belay anchors, do you: Option Alpha: rock the method with figure eights on each end OR Option Beta (bet you thought I'd say Bravo): Tie it off with triple fish's and use the continuous loop method? Poll Style! J
Does how you tie it depend on the thickness of the cordolette? I was under the impression that the lower diameter cords should be doubled up if used as a cordolette?

Can anyone comment on this?
Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 615

Matt, if your cordalette is so skinny that you don't trust a single strand, then it is not strong enough. The greatest advantage of a cordalette is flexibility in how you can build anchors. If you can't use a single strand going to a far-away piece, then you negate the primary benefit.

In my anchors class, we discussed the minimum amount of force that a belay anchor should be able to hold (the numbers escape me now). After this discussion, I looked up the strength of the 6mm cord I was using, and upgraded to 7mm after realizing that 6mm isn't *quite* enough for my own comfort level.

Regarding the pre-tied vs untied debate, I leave mine untied because I find myself frequently making funky anchors... one such monstrosity on the N face of Dragontail Peak consisted of a 10cm ice screw, a picket, a small nut and a .5 c4, all of which were equalized. Versatility is key!

Jeffo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 25
Bryan Manning wrote:I go with the 8's, when I use one. Just clip both 8's to one biner and you have a loop if ya need to
Good call!
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

I keep mine tied off in a loop with a fisherman's.

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 199

fig 8s

Jonny d · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

What I usually do:

Nick Sweeney wrote:I typically close the loop with a flat overhand.
What I'm trying to learn to do:
wivanoff wrote:If I use a cordelette, I tie the ends into the masterpoint knot
matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10
Nick Sweeney wrote:Matt, if your cordalette is so skinny that you don't trust a single strand, then it is not strong enough.
Alternatively, couldn't one use a low diameter cord but always use it doubled up? Like in a loop configuration?
nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 199
matt c. wrote: Alternatively, couldn't one use a low diameter cord but always use it doubled up? Like in a loop configuration?
Yes.
But at that point I'd use a 240cm dyneema sling like those made by BD and Mammut. You're already giving up some flexibility so you might as well get the real weight savings. I use one of these slings more often than I carry a proper cord, but it doesn't have the flexibility.
Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 615
matt c. wrote: Alternatively, couldn't one use a low diameter cord but always use it doubled up? Like in a loop configuration?
You could, but why would you? Like I said, that removes the versatility of your cordalette.
wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 392
Jonny d wrote:What I usually do: What I'm trying to learn to do:
Here's one way:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qF4A85CPr8c

Here's the way I usually do it:
http://mojagear.com/learn/2015/04/09/anchor-building-tips-from-hans-florine/

Leaving it untied allows me to figure 8 or clove then ends, tie the ends into the masterpoint, tie a quad, use it for rap tat. Versatility to do whatever I need.
eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 136

I keep mine in a quad for bolted anchors. If they anchors aren't either bolted or a tree, it's usually multi-pitch and i'll use the rope. On the rare occasion I find a gear anchor for single pitch i'd probably untie the quad and use it end to end with cloves instead of figure 8s

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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