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Nicholas King 1 · · Grand Junction, Colorado · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 20

Hey guys. I've just in the past couple of years I have gotten really into crack climbing. Specifically desert splitters. I frequent Indian Creek now, and living is Western CO there is much crack to be had.

My number one problem is that I use so much friggin tape. The reason being is that I never want to reuse my tape gloves. I make them, spend a good amount of time trying to make them perfect, and I am typically as meticulous as I can be. The issue is that no matter what I do, they always roll up on me when I'm jamming hands. It's difficult to explain but the side that is parallel to my fingers on the outside of the back of my palm, will roll on me, and create this weird feeling bulge or bump. I want to know how I avoid this. I've tried wrapping the tape back around the end of my gloves, and anything else I can think of. I always have this problem. How do I avoid it?

Also, it might be helpful to explain how I construct my gloves. I take one strip and put it on the back of my knuckles, where I tend to get a lot of gobies. then I use 3 strips going from there down to the bottom of my wrist to cover the rest of my hand. And then, to secure it I wrap one strip from my wrist up around my pointer finger, and back to my wrist. I do the same with my pinky finger, and then I tie it all together with a couple wraps around my wrist.

please tell me if I need to change how I tape my hands at all to avoid my gloves rolling up on me! Or maybe a sweet hint to avoid this. Thanks All!

Dave Holliday · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 1,416

I tape the way that Steph Davis describes on her site:…

The only difference is that besides a strip around the index finger, I add one around the ring finger (based on the pictures on her site, I think she has really small hands so she can get away without that extra strip). Everything else is the same. It's secure all day and never rolls on me. Her method is not meant for constructing a reusable tape glove; you'll have to do something else if you want to make something that you can reuse.

Also, use sticky tape. I get Eurotape from my local climbing shop which I find to be much better than the easily available alternatives (Metolius and drugstore brands).

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 868

+1 for the Steph meth.

Graham Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

What about using Ocun Crack Gloves?

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

Is that better than Walter White's shiet?!?^^^

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456

3 options:

1 Go bareback. It's a good kind of pain
2 Get a pare of hand jammies or other reusable tape gloves
3 Tape better

Also, get some tincture of benzoin. It helps the tape stick to your hands better and also has other uses, such as treating blisters on trails.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

I like Steph's method. It's simple, easy, and quick. Never got into the reusable tape glove thing, as I tend to wreck mine by the end of a session. Tape is cheap.

Jimmy Downhillinthesnow · · Bozeman, Montana · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 10

I do a horseshoe strip around each finger, a wrap around the knuckles on the dorsum of your hand, and then another reinforcing strap over everything at the wrist. Be patient, make sure everything lies flat, and trim up the edges at the wrist when you're done. You can re-use by cutting the wrist strap on the palm side of your hand and sliding the whole thing off your fingers. I've had a pair last a whole week at the Creek.

Chad Miller · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 150

I've been crack climbing for about five years now and found the method below to work quite well. It's simple, durable, and can be done without using much tape.…

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 6
Graham Johnson wrote:What about using Ocun Crack Gloves?
This is my preferred solution.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
Graham Johnson wrote:What about using Ocun Crack Gloves?
I tried these the other day. I have very average size hands.

For cracks less than tight 2's, they were terrible. I knew they would screw up the fit but I was shocked as to how much.

For cracks of solid 2 (or 3 friend) and larger, they were very nice. I didn't expect to like them that much but I did.

Since the vast majority of my crack climbing is bare handed and 3's are annoying, I could see getting a pair to go into my pack just for those sizes.

Back to the OP, experiment. Use pretape spray. Tape your thumb and thumb meat before the rest of your hand. Try to keep all areas down to 2 layers of tape. Flex your hand repeatedly while taping to keep it from getting too tight. Tape from strips, not directly off the roll. Don't worry about going through lots of tape, any worthwhile tape job is not reusable.
Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 255

Reusable tape gloves are really only useful for for wide hand cracks and the wider stuff unless you have the hands of a 10 year old. If you do any serious hand cramming your going to experience the dreaded tape roll or you are just making the climbing a lot harder then it needs to be.

Use euro tape and keep the tape thin, use the power x method similar to Stephs or a variation. The only people that use reusable tape gloves at Indian Creek are newbs or people that don't climb anything smaller than #2 camalots.

The other option is to not tape and develop good technique and toughen the back of your hands like leather. However this usually ends badly for those new to crack climbing and you end up with lots of gobies and scar tissue.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 205

I do what Tom Randall does
My gloves are fucking monsters though super thick i put on lots of base bits of tape and after the first use i will turn them inside out and tape the inside, they are beasts and handle the super shart cheese grater granite of my local climbing well.

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an… · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 115

Tape is aid. In all seriousness, Jammie are th shit except for thin hands. I only tape for thin hands using. Boxer wrap with tincture of benzoine.

Mark lewin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

Are there any good gloves out there besides tape? I can see the draw to tape being good friction.

Mike Citellus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 23

I like these crack gloves:
Obrworks gloves

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190
Rob Warden, Space Lizard wrote:Tape is aid. In all seriousness, Jammie are th shit except for thin hands. I only tape for thin hands using. Boxer wrap with tincture of benzoine.
By that logic, so are shoes.
Ryan Nevius · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 904
Ted Pinson wrote: By that logic, so are shoes.
pooch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 65

Outdoor Research's new crack gloves are awesome, they hold up well too now that they stitch the wrists. I got some for using at the gym as they're quicker to put on them tape, tried them outside once and haven't gone back to tape since. Bonus is they're so light I'll clip'em to me harness on multi's in case you need them, I've even put them on mid-pitch before at a stance.…

Tapas · · Utah · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 115

Best thing about the OR gloves is they are only a bit thicker than tape, so they don't get in the way for thin hands cracks like Hand Jammies, Ocuns and Singing Rocks do... ymmv

Nicholas King 1 · · Grand Junction, Colorado · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 20

yeah.. I have seen those OR gloves but I haven't heard too much about them yet. I'm glad you guys like them, maybe I'll give them a try. I just don't know too many other people that have them either so I have skeptical.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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