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Bouldering Program

Original Post
ajpowers · · Rio Rancho, New Mexico · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10

Anyone have a good program they've followed or created to improve their bouldering? Even individual workouts would be welcome. Simply climbing and relatively unstructured workouts have left me flatlined. I live down the street from a climbing gym so I have the facilities but I need more structured training. (For instance I've read the rock climbers training manual has helped people with their route climbing but I haven't read much about adapting it for the pebbles)

Dylan Colon · · Eugene, OR · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 340

The periodization program in the Rock Climber's Training Manual should still work fine, just remove or significantly reduce the power endurance phase if you don't care about routes.

A big problem would be trying to identify what it is that you think is holding you back. Is it raw finger strength, inability to grip certain holds (hangboarding might help). Or can you hold any hold on your project problems just fine but can't seem to stick the moves to the holds? Then maybe work power by limit bouldering or campusing. Maybe your feet cut too often, think about your core and movement technique.

In all likelihood there is some combination of the above that is currently holding you back.

For what it's worth, a couple cycles of the Rock Climber's Training Manual-style periodization just broke me out of a nearly 4 year bouldering grade plateau. Now I just need to work on the even more stubborn route plateau...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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