Found: cams, nuts, anchor in J Tree


Original Post
Hobo Greg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 115

Monday, March 28th I was walking the RHV and saw darn near a whole rack on a route. No rope, no other gear around, no people around or on top. Hope no one got hurt! What's going on? I led the route to get the gear, left notes on the boards in camp that day but no replies.

Russ Walling · · www.FishProducts.com · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 3,175

Sounds like the guy on Fote Hog who had a partner get wicked snail eye.

He posted on here... I'll look for the link...

Russ Walling · · www.FishProducts.com · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 3,175

Can't find the post, but the dude lost all that shit on Sunday. If I find it, I'll post up.

EDIT: This is the guy:
http://www.mountainproject.com/u/miles-h//105930344

Addem Bursh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 845

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/fote-hog/105725077

Hey Russ, it's here

Russ Walling · · www.FishProducts.com · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 3,175

Roger that Burchey.... Snail eye attacks can be pricey. I hope the bailer buffs out the finder.

Hobo Greg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 115

Message sent. Not sure if gear should be returned because party made a climbing decision to bail and didn't even try to retrieve their gear. I think your follower owes you some pieces.

Scott Bissi · · Cazenovia, New York · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 5

I'm sure the leader didn't want to leave a bunch of gear. I think it'd be pretty cool of you to return it.

steverett · · San Diego, CA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 105

It would also be cool of the owner to provide Greg with some brewskies for his trouble.

Addem Bursh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 845
Hobo Greg wrote:Message sent. Not sure if gear should be returned because party made a climbing decision to bail and didn't even try to retrieve their gear. I think your follower owes you some pieces.
Really depends on your mood. I'm not familiar with the route specifically, but seems like a guy that is leading 5.6 trad at Jtree should be able to figure out how to rescue gear off this route (barring an emergency/injury).

I would have built an anchor, rapped the single line and cleaned the gear, and then either prussikd up and walked off, or walked up and retrieved. Gotta be more to the story.
Hobo Greg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 115

Burch, I'd think so too, right? But then why didn't he find someone else to belay him up, or come back the next morning? He did nothing to help himself so why should I fork over the score of a lifetime? To pay forward the generosity shown towards me by my fellow man. But damn, you gotta help yourself too! Maybe I'll keep a few pieces and send the rest back. How dick is that from 1-10?

steverett · · San Diego, CA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 105

Burch, I haven't climbed it, but from seeing others do it, the first pitch traverses a bet. There's also a bit of an overhang after the traverse. You wouldn't be able to get to the first half from the anchors very easily.

http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/colpar0/media/Climbing%20Retro/Climb3.jpg.html

steverett · · San Diego, CA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 105
Hobo Greg wrote:Maybe I'll keep a few pieces and send the rest back. How dick is that from 1-10?
I'd give it a 7+ on a scale of 1-15b
Hobo Greg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 115

Steve Im only a moderate climber anyway so I'm ok with that. In fact I've made my decision. Even though it's usually agreed that "If you leave it for any reason other than assisting in a rescue it is booty as soon as you leave the parking lot unless you make it known that you will be back the next day to retrieve it", I'm still gonna return most of his gear. That way we all win some and we all lose some. Told him to break up with his girlfriend cuz she couldn't follow 5.6 and almost cost him $800 of gear.

andrew thomas · · Orcas island · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 105
Hobo Greg wrote:! Maybe I'll keep a few pieces and send the rest back. How dick is that from 1-10?
I don't see how that would be a dick move at all

shit why not just keep it all?

...if he gets none of it back maybe he'll learn something
Allen Sanderson · · Oootah · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,135
Adam Burch wrote: I'm not familiar with the route specifically, but seems like a guy that is leading 5.6 trad at Jtree should be able to figure out how to rescue gear off this route (barring an emergency/injury). I would have built an anchor, rapped the single line and cleaned the gear, and then either prussikd up and walked off, or walked up and retrieved. Gotta be more to the story.
IRCC the route can be done with a single 60m rope and it is a walk off but given the route dog-legs it might take some work to rap the full route and retrieve gear. However, if the guy was at the midway belay and had to bail because the follower, for most that would mean leaving a couple of pieces at the belay. So why was so much gear left on the route? Something is amiss???? That said the gear owner removed their post about it.
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

I couldn't find the original post for leaving the gear, but am pretty sure he said he bailed off the first pitch. He couldn't retrieve the gear and get off, without leading the second pitch and leaving even more gear.

So it really wasn't feasible for him to prusik or otherwise retrieve the gear, without leading the second pitch, too.

Anyway, I think returning the gear would be a nice gesture. Without a second to clean, he was in a jam.

Hobo Greg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 115

Talk about instant karma. After deciding to keep a few pieces (to the chagrin of all the old timers I know who say it's all booty) I took a fall from Space Station direct and dislocated an elbow! All fine now but man maybe I should send all the pieces back!

steverett · · San Diego, CA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 105

Cursed gear! Better destroy it to be safe, or the climbing gods will be angry

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Hobo Greg wrote:Talk about instant karma. After deciding to keep a few pieces (to the chagrin of all the old timers I know who say it's all booty) I took a fall from Space Station direct and dislocated an elbow! All fine now but man maybe I should send all the pieces back!
I'm the kinda guy who would leave a bunch of gear on a 5.6 so let me say this: I would be grateful if you sent me some or all of my gear back. I would not be mad or upset if you kept the gear.

I think the booty rules keep people responsible for their actions.
steverett · · San Diego, CA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 105
Bill Kirby wrote: I'm the kinda guy who would leave a bunch of gear on a 5.6 so let me say this: I would be grateful if you sent me some or all of my gear back. I would not be mad or upset if you kept the gear. I think the booty rules keep people responsible for their actions.
Fair point. If you abandon gear, you shouldn't have any expectation of getting it back. If the finder hadn't bothered to post on MP, that would be the most likely outcome.

On the other hand, I like the idea of climbers being part of a community that help one another. If you found the gear and it belonged to a good buddy of yours, would you return it? I know I would (though he'd owe me a beer, and I'd get to tease him about it for years).

I think keeping a few pieces and returning the rest is a fair compromise (seeing as Greg already went out of his way to find the owner and get some gear back to him).
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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