Tenaya RA vs Five Ten Stonelands (in terms of long term deformation/stretching)


Original Post
hadi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

SHORT VERSION: How will each one stretch/deform?

LONG VERSION:
I've got huge feet and I have a hard time finding rock climbing shoes that fit correctly. When I started climbing I bought the cheapest pair of big shoes I could find: Madrock Phoenix size 15. The shoe fit snuggly but because of the symmetric shape I was left with a tiny empty pocket at the tip. This was OK for a beginner but it made it almost impossible for me to use pockets. The shoe also stretched significantly and now it's pretty loose.

To try on shoes I've pretty much had to buy shoes online, try them on, and decide if I want to return them or not. Unfortunately, REI doesn't carry anything my size (except for Anasazi's which don't agree with my foot shape) otherwise I would just start climbing with one and if it gave me trouble I'd return it. So now I'm stuck with a bunch of new shoes that I can try on but can't climb in. I've narrowed it down to Stonelands and RA. The RA is slightlty narrower, has a lower profile, and is more aggressive. I like it a bit better, however, I'm a bit concerned with the comfort. I've heard that it won't stretch much but it will change shape a bit. I would prefer a stretch of about 1/4 - 1/2. Does anyone know if it would stretch this much? My tows are bent a bit inside the shoe, but it doesn't seem too uncomfortable, however, I can spot two tiny peaks on the surface where my knuckles are pressing against it and I fear that this will damage the shoe in the long run.

The Stonelands do not fit as suggly as the RA but the difference is minimal. My concern is that I'm afraid that they would stretch too much because they are leather (like my old shoes). Any info on how much they stretch would be highly appreciated. Five ten says upto a full size on leather shoes. I think 1/2 a size would be fine, but a full size would be too much. I can't go a half size smaller because fiveten does not make them at that size.

Sorry for the long post. Any input would be highly appreciated.

Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 80

I've been really happy with the Stonelands. I find myself using them over my "sending" shoes. They seem to get better and better the more they wear in. And they are very comfortable.

hadi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks man! I'm leaning toward the Stonelands I just wish they were slightly downturned like the Tenaya RA. Did they stretch much?

Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 80

They got more comfortable but I wouldn't say they stretched noticeably. If you're climbing a bunch of overhung pockets and heels you should probably go with arrowheads but if you climb face and slab these shoes are pretty great.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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