New gear arrived. Pictures update..


Original Post
Walter Galli · · Sint Maarten · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,956

Petzl grigri 2 and Black Diamond lock carabiners, tomorrow I will try them for the first time on top rope, wath you guys thinking about them?

Grigri 2 and Black Diamond lock carabiners..

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,740

TR self belay? Grigri is a lousy self belay device IMO (rarely self feeds).

Walter Galli · · Sint Maarten · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,956

Well I just pull the slack line wile I'm climbing on and if you fall the grigri will catch you,is it correct?

Tapas · · Utah · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 115

don't forget backup knots :-)

grog m aka Greg McKee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

This recent thread has a variety of info you may be looking for:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/self-belay-/111591511

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,740
Walter Galli wrote:Well I just pull the slack line wile I'm climbing on and if you fall the grigri will catch you,is it correct?
That's the plan. But there's a reason the manufacturer tells you not to take your brake hand off the rope.
John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530

I wouldn't recommend the BD Rocklock as a carabiner for self-belay using a grigri2. Too big, too easy to crossload. Screwgates are a big no-no for any kind of self-belay scenario as well.

ScottJM · · Montana · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 0
John Wilder wrote:Screwgates are a big no-no for any kind of self-belay scenario as well.
Curious to know why?
Charlie S · · Ogden, UT · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 1,471
John Wilder wrote:Screwgates are a big no-no for any kind of self-belay scenario as well.
Also interested in this. I route set with a GriGri and always swap out the auto-locker for a screw gate. Why? Because the rope rubbing next to the autolock has caused it to unlock. I haven't had this happen on a screw gate to date.
Walter Galli · · Sint Maarten · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,956

Yes Charly that is why I chose a screw gate, alwayse on my harness I put a screwgate and in any circumstances that is not required an autolocker.

trentbrown · · Seoul, Korea · Joined May 2015 · Points: 60

In the military, we rappel from a single locker. You have to be sure the rope runs through the locker in a way that TIGHTENS, not LOOSENS the screwgate.

Walter Galli · · Sint Maarten · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,956
trentbrown wrote:In the military, we rappel from a single locker. You have to be sure the rope runs through the locker in a way that TIGHTENS, not LOOSENS the screwgate.
This is basic for climbing.. For sure.
pizza.eater · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 5

Hi walter, great post. let us no how it goes

Quinn Baker · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0
ScottJM wrote: Curious to know why?
I may be wrong, but I believe it has something to do with the constant rope feed possibly unscrewing the screwgate if the biner gets oriented in a certain way.
Xam · · Boulder, Co · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 73

Might not be exactly pertinent or appreciated in this thread but my favorite carabiner for self-belay (in my case, top rope soloing with two micro trax) is the DMM Belay Master. The cross piece efficiently prevents cross loading and covers the screwgate to prevent unscrewing from the rope (which I hadn't considered before).

However, most important thing for me is the cross piece entirely covers the screw gate and prevents the device from sliding over it, getting caught and loaded from the side. For the micro trax, this will bend the side plate even under low loads, which in my experience is the most obvious way for it to fail. It is easy to see the side plate start to bend under body weight. The point is that I am not worried about cross loading the biner...I AM worried about cross loading the device.

trentbrown · · Seoul, Korea · Joined May 2015 · Points: 60
Walter Galli wrote: This is basic for climbing.. For sure.
Quinn Baker wrote: I may be wrong, but I believe it has something to do with the constant rope feed possibly unscrewing the screwgate if the biner gets oriented in a certain way.
This is the only reason I can guess why screwgates are such a no-no. We use them extensively in the military. I trust them and I fully support you Walter in your use of screwgates for your purposes. I solo-toprope with a microcender, grigri2, and screwgates on both.

On the other hand, I would like to know more about why they are so bad in a self-belay scenario. If anyone could shed some light on it, I for one, would be grateful. Its always good to learn.
Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

Most devices (Grigri etc) tend to slide into a cross-loaded position as you move which could be expected to break or damage something. I use a rubber band to centre my GriGri on the karabiner or if I´m lead soloing a maillon anyway.

Walter Galli · · Sint Maarten · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,956
Jim Titt wrote:Most devices (Grigri etc) tend to slide into a cross-loaded position as you move which could be expected to break or damage something. I use a rubber band to centre my GriGri on the karabiner or if I´m lead soloing a maillon anyway.
I like the idea of the rubber band to keep it in position,,,I will try this,
JohnnyG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10

walter - This topic has been covered so much, and you are off the mark on how to set up a self-belay TR. Many people do it many ways, but I trust the Petzl suggestion more than any wanker on the internet (which would include me in this post)

Anyway, check out these series of webpages from Petzl and decide for yourself.

https://www.petzl.com/US/EN/Sport/General-principles-for-solo-climbing-with-a-fixed-belay-rope?ActivityName=Multi-pitch-climbing#.VvU2guIrJhE

For ~$170, you'll have a microcender and a minitraxion, and a system that is well tested.

Even still, it seems like most people bite the dust because they made some mistake at the transition.

T Roper · · DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 860
JohnnyG wrote:walter - This topic has been covered so much, and you are off the mark on how to set up a self-belay TR. Many people do it many ways, but I trust the Petzl suggestion more than any wanker on the internet (which would include me in this post)
All those wankers who are bolting routes all around the world while hanging hands free on grigris not to mention all those gym route setters doing the same with plastic and grigris. Wankers, all of them!
Walter Galli · · Sint Maarten · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,956

Ok guys I know that all of you are pro compare to me, but I love simple things and here are the pics of my set up, I use it this morning in my woody and I try to fall at least 50 times not once my grigri went wrong is actually not even a fall because I pull the slack wile I'm climbing up, so wath it does is just stopping me to fall and you can stay hand free on it, but for sure the set up working only for topmrope as my concern, is the safest way of doing solo top rope, check the pics, cheers..

Self belay with a grigri2

Grigri self belay top rope

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply