Camping and sport climbing near Moab


Original Post
Nick Anderson1 · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

Hey Guys,

I'm headed to Moab the weekend of April 9th & 10th and I'm hoping to get some advice on good places to camp and climb. I realize that the vast majority of the climbing in the area is trad, but I don't have a trad rack or any experience climbing trad, so I'm looking for areas with a decent amount of bolted climbs.

As for difficulty, my normal climbing partner and I are currently climbing in the 5.11b to 5.11c range in our gym. We haven't done much outdoors though, so we probably won't attempt anything higher than a 5.10d or 5.11a on this trip. In addition, we'll probably be bringing a few less-experienced climbers, so ideally we'd be in an area with a few 5.8s and 5.9s as well.

Based on all of that, it sounds like Ice Cream Parlor is the place to go. However, it also sounds like it's always packed, and I'd liked to avoid the crowds if possible. Are there any other places worth checking out? And along those same lines, any camping recommendations? There's obviously Kane Springs campground if we can find a spot there, and I've camped in Onion Creek many times, but that's about the extent of my campground knowledge.

All that said, should we just look at climbing somewhere else? I'm in Boulder, CO, so it's not like there aren't a million other options closer to me. But now is the perfect time to go to Moab, and I've had the itch to go back for a while.

Any and all recommendations are appreciated!

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,067
Nick Anderson1 wrote:Hey Guys, I'm headed to Moab the weekend of April 9th & 10th and I'm hoping to get some advice on good places to camp and climb. I realize that the vast majority of the climbing in the area is trad, but I don't have a trad rack or any experience climbing trad, so I'm looking for areas with a decent amount of bolted climbs. As for difficulty, my normal climbing partner and I are currently climbing in the 5.11b to 5.11c range in our gym. We haven't done much outdoors though, so we probably won't attempt anything higher than a 5.10d or 5.11a on this trip. In addition, we'll probably be bringing a few less-experienced climbers, so ideally we'd be in an area with a few 5.8s and 5.9s as well. Based on all of that, it sounds like Ice Cream Parlor is the place to go. However, it also sounds like it's always packed, and I'd liked to avoid the crowds if possible. Are there any other places worth checking out? And along those same lines, any camping recommendations? There's obviously Kane Springs campground if we can find a spot there, and I've camped in Onion Creek many times, but that's about the extent of my campground knowledge. All that said, should we just look at climbing somewhere else? I'm in Boulder, CO, so it's not like there aren't a million other options closer to me. But now is the perfect time to go to Moab, and I've had the itch to go back for a while. Any and all recommendations are appreciated!
Mill Creek is a sport area just outside of Moab, but it is a bit lacking in the easier grades. There is a bit of information on it here on this site, so that may be an option. Just keep in mind that Mill Creek is a secluded area and quite adventurous for a sport climbing area.
grog m aka Greg McKee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Your list: Moab, 5.10, sport, near dank camping, with no crowds. Doesnt exist. Part of the moab experience is dealing with the crowds and meeting cool people from every corner of the globe. I recommend ice cream parlor and wall street. You wont be disappointed.

Matt Pierce · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2010 · Points: 266
grog m wrote:Your list: Moab, 5.10, sport, near dank camping, with no crowds. Doesnt exist.
^this^

Moab is not a sport area and probably not for you. And honestly it really isn't a beginner area either. Your best bet is Wall Street but it will be PACKED. Area camping is nearly impossible these days in places like Kane Creek or the Sand Flats etc. Don't expect long time visitors or locals to give you much of the "goods" on a public site like this, sorry.

Mill Creek is hard sport - not for beginners.

Honestly, get a BLM map and be creative and make sure you leave no trace and play it cool with camping. Do a little more adventuring and you will find stuff. Free stuff - away from crowds.

High on Moab is a good Newish guidebook that could help you out...
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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