The Future of Fixed Anchors II


Original Post
20 kN · · Hawaii · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,128

Who's all going? So far 26 signed up on FB. Anyone from the forums going?

Bruce Hildenbrand · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 880

Yup! I will be there as a panelist concentrating mostly on hand drilling and how to remove unusual bolts. Check out this rebolting project at:

http://www.climbing.com/news/rebolting-resurrection-wall-at-pinnacles-national-park/

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 105

Hi, I don't do FB so I don't know whats up, but I would like to make a suggestion to all folks do do the good work of fixing old climbs.

Please leave a few of the historical relics in place for people to look at. Some of those old pieces have a story to tell and it would be best to leave some in place.
For example... In Bruce's work at the Pinnacles wouldn't it be nice to sit at a hanging stance, on new modern stuff, and hang your boots on one of those bolts with the "RK" stamped on it?
On Castle Rock Spire there is a bolt that Ax Nelson placed with his own hands with a home made hanger that he made... Marked "AN" .... you don't need it today because we have 3" pieces and I made the anchor with gear, his bolt, placed over 60 years ago, it is a thing of beauty and has been sitting there forever.
That bolt deserves some respect and getting chopped out and maybe hauled off to a climbing museum would be a shame.

Just my .02

Nicholas Gillman · · Las Vegas · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 301

Work/Volunteering with the trail guides at the rendezvous has it shaping up for me to only get to see about 2/3rds of the Saturday demo portion but hopefully I can get off for the friday discussion part aswell.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0
20 kN wrote:Who's all going? So far 26 signed up on FB. Anyone from the forums going?
What are you talking about?
Jonathan Cunha · · Bolinas, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

^ yeah, is there a link to this event? Sounds interesting...

Bruce Hildenbrand · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 880

Guy,

we have been doing that were it was appropriate and safe to do so. When we were rebolting on the South Yak, we left Dave Hammack's original 1951 anchor bolt and also the lone bolt they placed to do the Tyrolean over to North Yak. We did, however, replace the protection bolt Hammack placed with new SS hardware.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,495
Future of Fixed Anchors Facebook Event

Here's the link to the event.

They're hooking up with the Rendezvous this time around in Red Rock, so they're running concurrently.
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

If the community is going to have a conference about fixed anchors, there should also be time devoted to the negative impacts - to both climbers (esp climbers not attending the event) and the environment - of mega gatherings like the Red Rocks Rendezvous, Creekster, etc.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 105

Bruce... thank you for doing that.

In my opinion we don't need to bulldoze all of the old artifacts away.

so this is a access fund deal.... meth

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,495
Marc801 wrote:If the community is going to have a conference about fixed anchors, there should also be time devoted to the negative impacts - to both climbers (esp climbers not attending the event) and the environment - of mega gatherings like the Red Rocks Rendezvous, Creekster, etc.
At the last one, those issues were discussed extensively.

In the past, the AF has planned to post the conference online. I do not know if that's the case this time around, although my understanding of the goals for the conference are to share and discuss long term bolting issues, so they should be available to those actually doing the work.

I'd suggest contacting the AF if you want to be a part of the event or have questions about it.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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