5.10s in Colorado


Original Post
khalifornia · Mar 20, 2016 · Colorado · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0
Planning a spring road trip around the state. Live in Boulder. I'm breaking into 10s, have been onsighting 10a in Eldo (Chockstone, Xanadu)

Willing to plan a trip around classic climbs in that range. What climbs are worth the trip around the state?

Local to Boulder/Estes is ok too.

Never been to Splatte, black canyon, and I suck at splitters

Christian George · Mar 20, 2016 · Ridgway CO · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0
So many variables...

Sport/trad
Single/multi-pitch
Face/crack
Roadside/alpine
Classic/obscure
Rock quality/ positional experience
Modern/ old school

If you want to work on climbing a harder grade, there is plenty to do around Boulder.
But if you want to trek around the state climbing, you'd do much better to think in terms of features you want to climb, or asthetics.
Grading varies widely, time period of the FA, local ethics, ego...

But I will say, if you want to get better, try stuff harder than you have already done.

Let the rock fuel your dreams, not a guidebook.

But if you ask me for a worthy 10a, I'd point you at the Casual route.
Ya never know till you try.

But all the crusty old dude ramblings aside...
DO IT!
There is so much to see in Colorado that isn't like the front range, it's worth going everywhere.
I went to CSU in Ft Collins, and thought RMNP was paradise.
Now I live near telluride, and hardly ever go to the front range.

I know that's not what you were asking, but you'll get better responses with a narrower field question like, "best 10a face routes?" Or "what's the best 10a arĂȘte in the state?"

fossana · Mar 21, 2016 · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 12,086
You probably want to get a bit better at crack climbing before you dive into the Black. Get on some Eldo routes like Blind Faith, Hand Crack (aka White Lightening), or Grand Giraffe, or head to Turkey Rocks in the Splatte.

Taketaketaketaketake · Mar 21, 2016 · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 34
Some of my favorites at shelf road are jasonbecker.com, wadsworth boulevard, dihedrus, and spinney dan. Spinney Dan is the hardest at 10c, keeping in mind that shelf grades are kind of soft.

Taketaketaketaketake · Mar 21, 2016 · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 34
I also did a pretty fun route called 'pretty woman' at wall of the nineties in clear creek a few weeks ago. I thought it was an awesome route but only had 2 stars on MP. I think it went at 10a.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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