Hard Slab climbing

There are lots of safe modern 5.10 slab climbs in Joshua Tree that are not in any guide book. Contact the mayor Todd Gordon for a day out on some great modern classic routes. I usually climb with Todd a couple times a week and can show you around if he is busy.

Get on them soon, once Todd's new guide book comes out things will get busy!

matt c. wrote:Jan, Does Edgehogs protect well? OP few routes that come to mind: At Suicide there are two short tens to the left and right of 'Finger-licken good' that are nicely bolted. I don't remember their names. At J tree - mountainproject.com/v/where… ---was bolted nicely and the upper crux was a slab. mountainproject.com/v/bufor… --- full disclosure didn't actually complete this climb but can tell you first hand its well bolted mountainproject.com/v/lubri… --- really pretty climb with lots of bolts. Bish ( around the corner) is also good

at least the pitches I lead or I wouldn't have lead them haha. I suck and scared of slabs...You would have to look at my tick list report on the route of the details I put.

Cochise has the purest slab in the country, hands down. Check it out!!!

Revelations at Suicide.... the definition of 5.10 slab.

its not to run out, figure it out, have fun.

Cochise is a great 5 day weekend if your from Southern California.

Really fun "sporty" climb that is more generously bolted. Loose Lady

You can also TR the other two to the right if you are feeling it, California Girls & Puss n Boots

Come on up to the Northwest this summer and climb at Darrington! Pitches under 5.9 will be sparsely bolted, but harder moves are mostly well-protected and 5.10 pitches tend to be very generously bolted.

At Suicide Rock Season's End comes to mind.

RyanJames wrote:Cochise has the purest slab in the country, hands down. Check it out!!!

That's a bold statement in a country full of granite domes!

Monty wrote: That's a bold statement in a country full of granite domes!

I love Cochise! But I would agree with this. Their is some pretty pure slab climbs else where. Hall of Mirrors comes to mind 16 pitches of slab up to 12c pretty pure and bad ass!!

walmongr wrote: I love Cochise! But I would agree with this. Their is some pretty pure slab climbs else where. Hall of Mirrors comes to mind 16 pitches of slab up to 12c pretty pure and bad ass!!

And do not forget the Royal Arches Apron... GBG, Shaky Flakes, Reefer Madness and about 50 other slabs spots just in that valley. Toss in Courtright Res with climbs like: Esto Power, Little Nooke and Welcome to Courtright. And if you go to Shuteye I have found that the slab climbing there is pretty modern, ie: "tons of bolts" go find them.

Anyway- Neil, to answer your Topic Question. I would not worry about finding climbs with lots of bolts, just go and work up through the grades. Do a bunch of bouldering that is slab. Learn why one falls off...to big of a step?, reach up to far? Learn the discipline required to get up them and you will be a better climber. Heck.... then go and try to learn off-width.

LOL for Chris recommending "Seasons End" ..... that climb was a gang effort, started by Tobin with about 5 or 6 very seasoned others taking a try at getting in the bolts...... Yes, all hand drilled from stances with many falls and its 5.11c .... !!!!!!

Walmongr, Hall of Mirrors does indeed look LEGIT!

Guy Keesee wrote: Learn the discipline required to get up them and you will be a better climber. Heck.... then go and try to learn off-width.

Sounds like solid advice. Thanks, Guy.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I'll be using this thread as a resource for sure!

Good advice from Guy. Locals got better at face by working their way up through the grades. If you can find something to throw a TR on, great. It'll help your confidence when leading because you'll know what you can stand/smear/edge on. But also remember that you're training your head as well.

You may also want to check out Mt. Rubidoux. Mostly bouldering but some good TRS as well. Lots of climbers earned their face climbing chops there. Big Rock is fun too, though they closed it temporarilly to work on the dam, and I'm not sure if it reopened.

Surprised John Strand hasn't chimed in here, he's perhaps one of our (read: past/present American climbers) most well-versed slab gurus. He's fairly active on this site, you should shoot him an email.