Hard Slab climbing


Original Post
NeilB · · Tehachapi, CA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 45

I'm wondering where are the best places to climb 5.10 and harder slab that don't have big runouts. I've really enjoyed the bit of slab climbing I've done at the 5.8/9 level and below, but it has generally been 20+ feet between bolts. Are there any areas near Southern California with a good concentration of slab climbs that are bolted more generously?

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 307

Suicide rock

Jon Clark · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 521

By modern standards, most folks won't find Suicide to be "generously bolted." There are however plenty of hard slab climbs there.

NeilB · · Tehachapi, CA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 45
Nathanael wrote:Suicide rock
Looks like some good stuff on Smooth Sole Wall (5.11 and well bolted)
Thanks and keep the suggestions coming!
GDavis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 10

valhalla is great, not too run out and well bolted at cruxes. Sundance to sun dyke as well, not to mention about a billion others.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60
NeilB wrote: Looks like some good stuff on Smooth Sole Wall (5.11 and well bolted) Thanks and keep the suggestions coming!
What specifically are you thinking of that fits the bill? Granted, some routes there are more tightly bolted than others, but nothing that comes close to tightly bolted. Maybe the first half of Down and Out, but the upper half compensates for that. As a general rule, I think you'll need to look long and hard in So Cal to find something. Keep in mind that most of these routes were put up when bolting on lead was the accepted norm. Your skills will grow, but so will your head control. I'd try to find some newer routes in Josh that were put up after rap bolting became acceptable.

Someone mentioned Valhalla. The first pitch is fine but the crux on the second pitch has seen several broken ankles over the years. Caveat emptor.
walmongr · · Gilbert AZ · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 85

Cochise in S. Az has some great well bolted multi pitch slabs in the 10-11 range. Would be a great weekend trip from so cal with awesome camping!

Jan Tarculas · · Riverside, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 808

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/edgehogs/105799986

you can find a good amount of hard slab in JTree also

I'm pretty sure you can climb stichter quits and traverse up top and set up top rope on a few 5.10 slabs....not exactly sure what you mean by hard slab, but 5.10 slab is hard for me

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/stichter-quits/105721660

matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155

Jan,
Does Edgehogs protect well?

OP few routes that come to mind:

At Suicide there are two short tens to the left and right of 'Finger-licken good' that are nicely bolted. I don't remember their names.

At J tree -
mountainproject.com/v/where...
---was bolted nicely and the upper crux was a slab.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/bufords-house-of-liver/105724102
--- full disclosure didn't actually complete this climb but can tell you first hand its well bolted

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/lubricated-goat/106761085
--- really pretty climb with lots of bolts. Bish ( around the corner) is also good

andrew thomas · · Orcas island · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 105

if you go to suicide
Spatula and some harder variations are easily top roped.. great end of day climb or warmup because it's literally right next to the approach trail

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/spatula/105790775

also there is a lot of good slab climbs at Josh that are well protected at the cruxes but not exactly generously bolted.. you should go there before it gets to hot!

also if youre in Tehachapi you should go check out the kern slabs
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/kernville-rock-aka-kern-slabs/106278927

NeilB · · Tehachapi, CA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 45
Fat Dad wrote: What specifically are you thinking of that fits the bill? Granted, some routes there are more tightly bolted than others, but nothing that comes close to tightly bolted. Maybe the first half of Down and Out, but the upper half compensates for that.
I was thinking of Tango and Toxic Waltz, just based off of route length and number of bolts listed on here...
NeilB · · Tehachapi, CA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 45
walmongr wrote:Cochise in S. Az has some great well bolted multi pitch slabs in the 10-11 range. Would be a great weekend trip from so cal with awesome camping!
Looks great. Thanks for the suggestion.
NeilB · · Tehachapi, CA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 45
Jan Tarculas wrote:http://www.mountainproject.com/v/edgehogs/105799986 you can find a good amount of hard slab in JTree also I'm pretty sure you can climb stichter quits and traverse up top and set up top rope on a few 5.10 slabs....not exactly sure what you mean by hard slab, but 5.10 slab is hard for me mountainproject.com/v/stich...
Yes 5.10 slab is hard for me, too. I've done stichter quits, but wasn't looking for TR setups. Sounds like a good idea. Spent the better part of an afternoon traversing around the base of all those slab routes never getting more than 10 ft off the ground, haha.
SirTobyThe3rd · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,920

Mango Lassi Lulz Machine on Lower Tokopah Dome is well bolted and slabby, facey. With some awesome chicken heads.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/mango-lassi-lulz-machine/110365180

Bonneville Williams · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 145

Come on out to Salt Lake man. If hard slab is your thing than Little Cottonwood Canyon is your jam. Definitely worth the drive!

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-fin/105739587

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/industrial-wall/105739524

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/lizard-head-wall/105822915

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/super-slab/106044104

Greg Maschi · · Phoenix ,Az · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 0

Cochise, you will not do any better in your search.Do yourself a favor and hop on Warpaint when you make the trip.

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 95

If you want to climb hard slab but not risk runouts, then just throw down a toprope. duh.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60
NeilB wrote: I was thinking of Tango and Toxic Waltz, just based off of route length and number of bolts listed on here...
OK, those are newer routes. Here's the problem I see though. It sounds like you're just breaking into .10 slab and you've picked out an .11 a and .11c. Not sure how those have much relevance to what you're looking for. Like someone said up thread, just throw a TR on an easy .10 and start there.
Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,265

Plenty of good Friction/Slabbing in Joshua Tree.

Tylerpratt · · Litchfield, Connecticut · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 35

RRG has some great slab. There's a shortie at the military wall and I think a 5.12 slab line somewhere. There's a lot more I just cant think of off the top of my head.

Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 90

Noriega Does Panama in Joshua Tree, Indian Cove Campground. I'm not the most experienced slab climber and this 5.10a proved I wasn't worthy that day. Well protected and steep. I was pulling on every draw and never finished the climb. Tucked my tail and left it for another day. Anyone else ever gone up this slab? It still has some good grit on it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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