Yosemite Climbing Advice


Original Post
Thumer · · SLC, UT · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 230

How do climbing grades in little cottonwood compare to Yosemite? I started trad climbing last summer, and feel pretty good on 5.7 multipitch routes in LCC. Climbing magazine advised you start climbing in Yosemite well below what you lead at your home crag. Would 5.6 Southeast buttress of Cathedral peak be a reasonable route for me to start on? I only have one day for climbing on my trip. I don't really want to end up with 700' of sand bagged climbing. Also, anyone know how crowded this climb would be mid week in July?

WadeM · · Golden, Co · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 215

It's a fun 5.6 and a safe.

Climb can always be crowded because its within the reach of the low leader and a classic

Get up early and youll be fine

Its great

C Brooks · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 461

Always expect crowds on easy classics in Yosemite. I hiked into Cathedral Peak starting at 5am 2 days after a snowstorm, in May. Still was not the first person on the climb. Expect at least 10 parties on it through the day, unless its raining.

That being said, its a fun, easy romp and well worth doing. Just don;t expect to be alone

madskates · · slc · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 100

I've spent a lot of time in both places. Personally i would say the grading in little cottonwood is just as hard if not a little stiffer. The climbing on the route is causal and fun, mid week you'll probably have a few parties on the route or you could not have any. Have fun!

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 12,603

If you're comfy on Schoolroom, Tingey's, Great Chockstone, Indecent Exposure/Standard Thumb...you won't have an issue on SE Buttress of Cathedral.

Its always crowded mid summer. Get an early start and head on up. Great route.

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,040

SO when you say Yosemite, you mean Toulumne? Or the valley? If you are staying in the valley in July, a few things.
It will be warm, if not hot. It will be crowded, if not GTFO crowded, including the rock, especially the easier (<5.10) routes.
All that said, if you want to climb a clasic:
"After 6". But get there at 5 am! Seriously crowded. 6 pitches of fun, good expousre, good pro, easy walk off.
Do the first pitch of "CS Concerto", then instead of the 5.8 2nd pitch (some say the best 5.8 pitch in the valley), continue as for after 6. This is the route that many people free solo.
Both uber classic, and very different from Catherdral, which is in it's own right a classic, of an alpine nature.
One day? Criminal!
.02¢

Thumer · · SLC, UT · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 230

Thanks for the advice. I haven't been on Great Chockstone or the Thumb yet, but I will try them out this spring before I go.

Muscrat, I am planning on climbing Cathedral Peak in Toulumne, but next time I will try and go during spring or fall and try After 6 in the valley.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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