Improving with a finger injury

Original Post
thebmags · Mar 10, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 105
Screwed up the finger yesterday, total bummer. Anybody have any good ideas for becoming a better climber when you can't climb? I'm thinking standard stuff like running, stretching etc.

Anything finger rehab exercises would be great too

Quinn Baker · Mar 10, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0
Cardio is great, running is always good.

Also for other training, maybe look into some light posterior movement exercises (lat pulldowns, rows, pullups, etc). These will help strengthen the muscles in your back which are most involved in most types of climbing. Probably wont help you much on slab or offwidth though, haha.

As for finger rehab, maybe some very lightweight finger curls with a barbell or smith machine once you're decently healed?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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