Offset cam smallest size, metolious or Alien?


Original Post
JeffL · Mar 9, 2016 · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 15
Somewhere in Zion my black/blue offset alien disappeared. Does anyone have a strong preference between the black/blue offset vs the metolious purple/blue? They look to be similar in size. Most likely use will be on El Cap in Yosemite and the walls of Zion.

20 kN · Mar 9, 2016 · Hawaii · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,123
JeffL wrote:Somewhere in Zion my black/blue offset alien disappeared. Does anyone have a strong preference between the black/blue offset vs the metolious purple/blue? They look to be similar in size. Most likely use will be on El Cap in Yosemite and the walls of Zion.
Aliens are nice but their quality control is about on par with something you might find at Chuck E. Cheese's. Master cams are nice, and I dont have any complaints other than the cam stops on the 0 and 00 models are barely strong enough to hold your hat. I use the Master Cams in offsets and Aliens in regulars.

Erik Sloan · Mar 9, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0
Good question!

I've aided a ton of pitches on both (meaning I actually stood on the piece and found out if it would hold or not, which when you're talking about blue/black alien size is not always a given) - the Alien all the way. The Master Cams have a more rigid head, which makes it much more difficult to place in flaring, offset placements.

From the early 2000s until Fixe bought Aliens (2010?) we all had to use Master Cams.....man with the Totem Cams now I just look back at those times and laugh - we had it hard!haha

Woot!
Erik
Yosemitebigwall.com

JeffL · Mar 10, 2016 · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 15
Thanks Erik. I've put the fixe offsets through the ringer and have nothing but good to say about their quality. Black diamond on the other hand, I've mangled my 2nd .4 in less than 5 months! I'm never buying another small c4

Adamant D · Mar 10, 2016 · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0
The rubber on the Master Cam's thumb loops shreds easier than other cams if you use a fifi to top step. On such a small cam, that might be less of an issue (at least, I'm more scared to top step on tiny cams..). You can tape the thumb loops with electrical tape (find and use the same color as the cam's loop) to slow this down, but in my experience, it's going to happen.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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