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Fast Approach to Eagle Wall (RR)

Original Post
aaron hope · · Walnut Creek, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 295

I've read all the information on MP about the Eagle Wall approach (including old forum posts) but I'm still not sure if I got it right. There are several references on the main eagle wall page to an "approach crack". Can anyone tell me if the obvious crack shown in the photo below is this approach crack and if this is different from the "4th and easy 5th" approach shown in the Handren guide (it sure seems to be).

Derrick W · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 105

That is the crack referenced elsewhere. The best route, however, is not to climb the crack directly. There is a trail with cairns that cuts up out of the gully and puts you at the base of that crack. Walk right past the crack and into the steep gully to its right. 20 yards up the gully, there is a crack on the left side that turns into an easy chimney and deposits you on the slab. The hardest move is 5.6ish and literally in the first 10 feet. After that, it's all a cake walk. Once on the slab, walk up staying just left of the gully (it's full of shrubs). After a few minutes, things level out a bit, and you cross the gully and continue scrambling left and around the corner. There will be a series of ledges (with cairns) taking you back to the right and depositing you on the slab below and right of Eagle wall.

aaron hope · · Walnut Creek, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 295

Awesome. Thanks Derrick.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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