El Chorro Trad?

Original Post
Daniel Affsprung · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 65

Hey all, I've seen a few places where there are trad routes listed for some nice easy looking long multipitches in El Chorro. I'm headed down there this coming week, and hoping to do one of these one day for a break from harder sport climbing.

Can anybody give a route recommendation/give me an idea of what to expect? My trad background is the Gunks which I strongly suspect is quite different from the trad climbing found in El Chorro.

Daniel Affsprung · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 65

Bump because when i posted this it was like 9 am in the US

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

Hi, I can't say from personal experience because we never got on any of the multi-pitch routes while we were there, but there are lots of choices as the area is very extensive and the buttresses in the Frontales area quite impressive. Most, though not all, such routes, especially the popular ones, will have bolted belays and occasional bolts en route as well. I would definitely bring a selection of mostly medium sized pieces,passive(stoppers)as well as cams. I'd also bring at least one larger size cam--3"-4", as many limestone trad routes have some sections of wide flake cracks. Also definitely be careful of loose rock as many of the longer (and even shorter) routes have sections of somewhat broken rock--hardhats definitely recommended (and be aware of folks climbing below you). We used the Rockfax guidebook (the local one wasn't particularly helpful)and found route recommendations for the sport routes to be reasonably accurate so would presume the multi-pitch ones to be pretty similar.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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