Mountain Project Logo

Training hand and finger jams, without a crack

Original Post
Karl Henize · · June Lake, CA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 570

I would like to train hand and finger jams, while working in a remote location, where I don't have access to cracks, and I cannot build/bring a full-scale "crack machine". I would appreciate any advice on either purchasing a commercially available product or building a DIY training aid.

I have access to a conventional gym, and I can bring anything that will fit in a suitcase. I currently have a set or rock rings.

My initial thought is to get two pieces of plywood (large enough to fit two hand jams) and 4 bolts (with nuts and spacers) to create adjustable spacing between the two pieces of plywood. I would then use some cord to hang the contraption from pull-up bars, and do dead hangs off the jams.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

I'm making some wild guesses based on the Texas part of your profile. You're working on an oil rig a long way from climbing?

Am I close?

I don't think any training with whatever temporary housing you've got is going to make any difference. Just get as wicked strong as you can and see if you can manage days/weeks off in crack climbing areas.

Sometimes brick buildings are built close enough to each other to hand jam but this is rare.

Good luck.

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 50

Anything might be better than nothing. A couple pieces of plywood (adjustable) will let you "figure out" the best way to use your hands - fingers to fit the various widths you will encounter. Make your "crack machine" so that you can hang weights below it - and then lift the thing set at all the different sizes you can make. Real thing - not hardly - but I think it will have more value than your other options - which seem to be none :).

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

This sounds like the best you're going to get. You're not going to be able to truly practice crack climbing, but it's decent for practicing various jams and is super adjustable/portable.

coldatom · · Cambridge, MA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 70

Are you asking how you can learn/practice jamming technique, or how you can condition yourself to be in prime crack climbing shape?
I feel like these are two different things.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply